Brake fluid flush after 24v swap

[craiggroves91]

So I've never done a brake fluid flush before and I'd like to do one on my e30.
I just did a s52 swap and I had to remove the brake booster and master cylinder to relocate it. I'm not sure if this affects anything, but it could because the reservoir is obviously empty. Clutch slave also needs to be bled.

So I was wondering can I just get denatured alcohol (heard this is safe to run through and clean everything) and manually pump it through and then let it dry out and proceed to fill with brake fluid and bleed both the clutch and slave?

[jlevie]

Using alcohol on the internals of the brake system should only be done with the system fully disassembled where the alcohol can be removed with compressed air.

To flush the system push most of a liter (or two) of brake fluid through the system with a pressure bleeder.

[craiggroves91]

Using alcohol on the internals of the brake system should only be done with the system fully disassembled where the alcohol can be removed with compressed air.

To flush the system push most of a liter (or two) of brake fluid through the system with a pressure bleeder.

Can I just buy really cheap brake fluid for that?

[jlevie]

You could, but that would be false economy. You'd want to push about two liters of good fluid through the system to get all the cheap stuff out. Those two liters of fluid is all that should be needed for a really good flush.

[rasputin]

usually people just suck out whats in the res.,fill with new fluid, bleed brakes, top off res. and call it a day.

[nrubenstein]

Using alcohol on the internals of the brake system should only be done with the system fully disassembled where the alcohol can be removed with compressed air.

To flush the system push most of a liter (or two) of brake fluid through the system with a pressure bleeder.

If the system is fairly crusty, I would go through a few flushes with cheap crap, engaging ABS in between before I even started putting good fluid in.

That said, if it is a street car, any DOT4 is good enough.

[craiggroves91]

usually people just suck out whats in the res.,fill with new fluid, bleed brakes, top off res. and call it a day.

Suck out only whats in the reservoir? Or did you mean suck out the entire system?

You could, but that would be false economy. You'd want to push about two liters of good fluid through the system to get all the cheap stuff out. Those two liters of fluid is all that should be needed for a really good flush.

Well I didn't want to compromise my RBF600

[rasputin]

in the res

[craiggroves91]

in the res

Well the res. is empty since everything was removed

[craiggroves91]

I guess my main question is, will the new fluid mix with the old? Or do I use the new fluid to push out the old?

[rasputin]

I guess my main question is, will the new fluid mix with the old? Or do I use the new fluid to push out the old?

kind of both, you know what your new fluid looks like, to make it easy grab some ATE blue

bleed it out, when you see blue fluid and get no more air you are good. feel me?

[jlevie]

You don't need ATE Blue to do a flush, and it can stain the reservoir and make level checks difficult. I quit using it a long time ago for that reason. ATE Type 200 is the same fluid without the dye.

A full system flush on an E30 will require 1L of brake fluid. Push a measured 250cc through one rear caliper and 150cc through each of the other wheels. A pressure bleeder is the best way to do this. While bleeding the first rear wheel press the brake pedal to floor a couple of times and do the same when bleeding one of the front wheels.

RBF600 isn't really necessary on an E30 that is in even close to stock configuration. ATE Type 200 is good enough and about half as expensive.

[craiggroves91]

You don't need ATE Blue to do a flush, and it can stain the reservoir and make level checks difficult. I quit using it a long time ago for that reason. ATE Type 200 is the same fluid without the dye.

A full system flush on an E30 will require 1L of brake fluid. Push a measured 250cc through one rear caliper and 150cc through each of the other wheels. A pressure bleeder is the best way to do this. While bleeding the first rear wheel press the brake pedal to floor a couple of times and do the same when bleeding one of the front wheels.

RBF600 isn't really necessary on an E30 that is in even close to stock configuration. ATE Type 200 is good enough and about half as expensive.

It's an s52 e30 that will see track time. BBK eventually.
My spec e30 says ATE gets soft at times.

I am going to do the flush all manually.

Will this procedure do it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXMcfzgox6o