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Those with adjustable trailing arms and twelve point aircraft nuts...
I brought a spare subframe to work. We're gonna do a little brainstorming on this one.
I can't beleive there's not another solution. The design, though simple, is terrible. I would gladly pay twice as much for a useable solution. I spend $1000-1200 a year, just on back tires, and because of the goofy size(245 35 17)they're getting tough to find.
I took my car to my alignment guy and he just laughed, told me we could have it on the rack all day if that's what it took, but that's rediculous for everyone involved.
Hi Mark, Its Andrew from IE. ARP should have the nuts if you wanted to go 12-point, I just don't have a part number in front of me.
As for the design, I'll disagree to the "eccentric" design being terrible. It's simple and effective, been using it to great effect on the shop race cars for nearly 2 decades. There are other solutions out there, including the "Posi-lock" design we started making last year. We also did a number of trailing arms involving a large welded rod-end at the base of each trailing arm (this was back in the mid 90's).
If you have the chance shoot me an email, I'll send over some info you might find helpful and/or figure out what's going on.
I actually don't find the eccentrics all that difficult to align. Once I know things are centered, I make my alignment adjustments using toe plates so that I can lift and adjust and repeat as needed. In fact I actually find it easier to adjust the E30 rear than the pain in the ass that is the E46 rear trailing arm.
We just pooled together at the shop for laserstrings and a full set of toe plates. I'm definitely looking forward to that upgrade.
I'm not complaining about the eccentrics or IE. AT ALL.
It's the fact that the outboard nuts are nearly impossible to get to.
I modified two sets of combo wrenches in different configurations. I can get a modified open end on the nut, but it's so heavily modified it hasn't the strength to move the nut. I was able to snug the nut, but, for the life of me I cannot get the nut to loosen up with that solution.
I also modified the box end enough to get it on the nut, but once I rotate the nut, I cannot get the wrench off of the assembly. Maybe Cab's are different, I'll have to look.
I can get to the nuts if I drop the subframe an inch or so, but an alignment shop isn't going to repeat that to get things right.
I usually do toe plate/string alignments, but this isn't a track car, and I'd like as close to perfect as possible...the reason I want it lasered.
Thanks for the offer Andrew, I'll shoot you an email shortly.
I'm not complaining about the eccentrics or IE. AT ALL.
It's the fact that the outboard nuts are nearly impossible to get to.
I modified two sets of combo wrenches in different configurations. I can get a modified open end on the nut, but it's so heavily modified it hasn't the strength to move the nut. I was able to snug the nut, but, for the life of me I cannot get the nut to loosen up with that solution.
I also modified the box end enough to get it on the nut, but once I rotate the nut, I cannot get the wrench off of the assembly. Maybe Cab's are different, I'll have to look.
I can get to the nuts if I drop the subframe an inch or so, but an alignment shop isn't going to repeat that to get things right.
I usually do toe plate/string alignments, but this isn't a track car, and I'd like as close to perfect as possible...the reason I want it lasered.
Thanks for the offer Andrew, I'll shoot you an email shortly.
Mark
Have you ground down the handle as well? I've gotten my wrench to the point where it isn't so bad to get it done.
Using 12-point aircraft nuts on the outboard adjusters in place of hex nuts makes it pretty easy to set toe. I use a box end wrench with a about a 30deg bend for those nuts. If the car has poly or aluminum subframe bushing, they need to be trimmed on the inner side to make more room.
The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
I brought a spare subframe to work. We're gonna do a little brainstorming on this one.
I can't beleive there's not another solution. The design, though simple, is terrible. I would gladly pay twice as much for a useable solution. I spend $1000-1200 a year, just on back tires, and because of the goofy size(245 35 17)they're getting tough to find.
I took my car to my alignment guy and he just laughed, told me we could have it on the rack all day if that's what it took, but that's rediculous for everyone involved.
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