Control arm DYI?

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  • dudecati
    Advanced Member
    • Jun 2012
    • 104

    #1

    Control arm DYI?

    Hi All - looking to do the control arm job on my new to me 91 318is. I'm looking at the FCP Meyle HD kit - seems like its all there for a good price. Thing is - I've not done this before. I searched (trust me I did, but I never seem to find what I'm looking for) and didn't find a DIY.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction for a write up or a DIY on how to do this? Is it a fairly simple job (I do have access to a lift)?

    Thanks!
  • IronFreak
    No R3VLimiter
    • Dec 2012
    • 3702

    #2
    Are you looking to press in new ball joints?
    sigpic

    Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication

    1988 325is - TrackRat in progress

    Instagram @rebellionforge

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    • IronFreak
      No R3VLimiter
      • Dec 2012
      • 3702

      #3
      sigpic

      Rebellion Forge Custom Fabrication

      1988 325is - TrackRat in progress

      Instagram @rebellionforge

      Comment

      • Earendil
        E30 Mastermind
        • Jun 2009
        • 1662

        #4
        One of the great things about owning an E30 is that many people have worked on their own, and written about it.
        So things like this will usually work just fine. I tend to prefer pelican articles, but forums can be good if they have lots of pictures, as often times the "gotchas" are in the followup replies.
        -------------------------------------------------
        1989 - E30 - M20B25 - Manual. Approx 300,000+ miles - Track Rat & Weekend Fun
        2000 - E46 - M52TUB28 - Manual. Approx 130,000 miles - [not so] Daily Driver

        sigpic

        I'm looking for a Lachssilber Passenger Fender and Hood. PM if you have one or both to sell!

        Comment

        • Jahman093
          Advanced Member
          • Sep 2012
          • 183

          #5
          I just did this about a week ago and wasn,t too hard at all. It,s pretty straight forward by just removing nuts and puttng new one on.

          Tools needed:
          1/2 or 3/8 ratchet
          Sockets 22mm(need 22mm in wrench as well or 7/8) 19mm 17mm and a 16mm?(sway bar links)
          extentions
          **ball joint seperator**
          hammer
          about an hour and half of your time

          I did this on my 325 so i dont know if the bolt sizes are the same

          First thing is jack up the car and remove front wheels and put on jackstands

          Next grab your 22mm wrench and remove the top nut to the control arm. This is going to be a PITA for passenger side due to exhaust, so you only have room for a wrench. Driver side is a bit easier. Once broke loose take some extentions and remove nut through top of engine bay.

          Once that is removed, remove the two 17mm bolts holding the lolipop on

          Then take your 19mm and remove the nut attached to the wheel.(this you will need your ball joint seperator for)

          Finally take your 16mm socket and remove sway bar link(will have to transfer its base piece to other control arm

          Putting new one on is just reverse

          Good luck! hope this helps

          Comment

          • jlevie
            R3V OG
            • Nov 2006
            • 13530

            #6
            The only difficult part of changing control arms is dealing with the control arm bushings. That is really a job for a press, but there are ways around that. You will need to change those bushings and I recommend using the M3 offset bushings.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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            • dudecati
              Advanced Member
              • Jun 2012
              • 104

              #7
              Thanks all, parts ordered (including offset bushings). Appreciate the links and pointers!

              Comment

              • Just Scott
                Advanced Member
                • Dec 2010
                • 140

                #8
                I found that dropping the subframe an inch or so really helped with being able to see what I was doing. It gave a little more access to the nuts as well. Use your floor jack to support it.

                I was working from the wheelwell, not from the top as I find it easier to sit on my butt than bend over. But I'm an "old guy" on this forum.
                1990 325is - sterling silver, very nice, maybe for sale

                Comment

                • iwantspeed
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 3164

                  #9
                  If you jack up the engine with a 2x4 and a floor jack on the oil pan just to support the weight of the engine. You can remove the engine mounts and fit a wrench in there.

                  In my case I had to place a second floor jack on control to keep the bolt from spinning.

                  Another issue I had is once I got the nut loose the tapered part of the control arm would not let go from the subframe. I had to use a big fucking hammer and an extension to beat down on The control arm bolt.




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