Prologue: I've spent the last 3 years addressing workmanship problems inherited from the idiot previous owner, and this is just one of a long list.
1992 vert has a 5-lug setup with E36 M3 front and E36 318ti rear. With new OEM subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings, and H&R OE-sport E30 springs, the rear camber measures (using my ultra-accurate carpenter square and ruler method) -3.1 degrees at the left wheel, and -1.6 degrees at the right wheel.
The wheels are noticeably leaned in, especially the left side. The rear end is not very low; the springs are supposed to result in less than an inch of drop from stock. With 235-40-17 tires, the tire is only slightly up into the metal of the fender arch.
I'd like to be at no more than -0.5 degrees on both sides. So,
Q1: Do the above numbers indicate that my left-side trailing arm is damaged/bent?
Q2: Can a racing fabrication or alignment shop heat up and tweak the arms to hit my target camber?
Q3: With weld-in adjusters on the subframe, would I still need to replace the left-side trailing arm? How much camber can the adjusters take up?
Any and all ideas and alternative fixes are welcome.
I can post up pictures if needed, but I'm not sure what that would add to the discussion.
1992 vert has a 5-lug setup with E36 M3 front and E36 318ti rear. With new OEM subframe bushings and trailing arm bushings, and H&R OE-sport E30 springs, the rear camber measures (using my ultra-accurate carpenter square and ruler method) -3.1 degrees at the left wheel, and -1.6 degrees at the right wheel.
The wheels are noticeably leaned in, especially the left side. The rear end is not very low; the springs are supposed to result in less than an inch of drop from stock. With 235-40-17 tires, the tire is only slightly up into the metal of the fender arch.
I'd like to be at no more than -0.5 degrees on both sides. So,
Q1: Do the above numbers indicate that my left-side trailing arm is damaged/bent?
Q2: Can a racing fabrication or alignment shop heat up and tweak the arms to hit my target camber?
Q3: With weld-in adjusters on the subframe, would I still need to replace the left-side trailing arm? How much camber can the adjusters take up?
Any and all ideas and alternative fixes are welcome.
I can post up pictures if needed, but I'm not sure what that would add to the discussion.
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