Trailing arm confusion. HELP!

[admiral awesome]

I've also been looking for some adjustable rear sway bar links. Can't find any anywhere, and was told by advanced auto parts they are a discontinued item. I ordered non-adjustable ones for the time being (because it is currently held by a ghetto rigged front end link on the driver side, and a bent old link on the passenger side) But if there is a way to still come by adjustable rear end links I could really use them. Been looking around and the links off an FC RX7 look like they would fit.

[admiral awesome]

turns out i will need a new trailing arm still has that positive camber :(

[AndrewBird]

You really are better off pulling the exhaust and heatshields to re-install the driveshaft. It has to be oriented the correct way or you will have vibration issues. Hopefully yours was marked with either a painted on line or a couple punch marks. You need to at least line the flanges at each end of the driveshaft up when you put it back. Problem is, you can do it more then 1 way.

When you go to remove the poly bushings, hammer out the metal tube first. This will allow the bushing to shrink inward a bit and come out of the subframe much easier. Don't forget to grease them well with silicone grease or they will squeak.

Removing the stock bushing is also a lot easier if you have a press. Take the subframe down to an automotive machine shop and have them press them out. I've had similar things done and they have generally only charged me $20-$30.

[admiral awesome]

Its late, I'm tired, bushings need torched out, rear portion of the driveshaft won't push all the way back in, I'm done for the night.

[admiral awesome]

I've been thinking about it, but I don't really know anybody that knows how to weld. Plus with all the things I've had to buy along with the possibility of still needing a new trailing arm (really really hope I don't) I am trying to limit spending to needs rather then wants.

[CHIF8008]

yea. someone hit a curb.... mine looked like that when i did a bad drifto


NOTE: you should get a camber/caster kit welded on while you have it out. if there is/ was any uni-body damage that is still causing alignment problems you may be able to correct it with the kit/ along with fixing camber wear, toe wear out back from lowering the e30

[admiral awesome]

^^Hahahaha, he isn't really a mechanic. Just a really good friend of mine who lives down the street. Despite his attire, he is pretty handy with a wrench. Also accepts my mom's cooking as payment.

[Farbin Kaiber]

So, your mechanic wears slipons and gymshorts to work on a customers vehicle? Really!?!?!

[admiral awesome]

Made some good progress today. Got my old subframe off. Looks like the trailing arm held up to the impact and didn't bend, but won't know for sure until we start piecing it back together. One downer is that I accidentally pulled the rear part of the driveshaft back too far while dropping the diff down so now I have to either keep trying to shove the shaft in blind until I line the splines up, or remove the whole exhaust along with the exhaust guards just to put it back in. Still haven't decided what I want to do in that situation. On a positive note however the old subframe and trailing arms have poly bushings already. Need to find a way to get those out because the bushings in the new subframe are SHOT.

My buddy (A.K.A. my mechanic) basking in triumph upon the removal of the old subframe.


Kind of hard to see, but this is the trailing arm mount comparison. New is on the left.


Poly bushings in the old subframe. Really want these out intact. Gotta figure it out.


Bushing comparison. The ones that the new subframe came with are definitely not usable.


If we can sort out the bushing swapping, and my trailing arm ends up not being bent then the car should be on the ground ready for an alignment tomorrow.

[admiral awesome]

Really hope it doesn't get stuck. Fixing everything has been nothing but trouble so far. Last thing I need is an issue to require more time and money, considering the car has already been down for a couple months...Thanks for all the help by the way. Really appreciate all the input.

[Cletonius]

Got my new sub-frame today. Took out everything that is holding it to the body and now just need to get it down. Any preferred method of doing so? Would really like to save the bushings it has because the new sub-frame's bushings are shot.

I'd replace the bushings.

Easiest way to get the thing out is to thread a 5/8" lag bolt into the bushing from underneath, then put a 18" round punch in the hole from inside the car. 1-2 hits with the sledge and the subframe should drop.... as long as it doesn't get stuck.

[admiral awesome]

Got my new sub-frame today. Took out everything that is holding it to the body and now just need to get it down. Any preferred method of doing so? Would really like to save the bushings it has because the new sub-frame's bushings are shot.

[jlevie]

You need a new subframe and a new trailing arm.

[pantelones]

I thought of just dropping everything down and bashing them straight with a hammer, but there is so little room to move in that area that I would like some other input before I just go to town with the hammer.

Please do not ever do this...




That needs to be replaced. You can come close to getting it back into place, but you will strain to metal. That is a highly stressed area and I would not recommend doing that for safety reasons.

Spend the couple hundred dollars and a weekend to replace your subframe, and verify that your trialing arms are straight. While you are in there make sure your body is straight...

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1289810&postcount=46

[F34R]

I don't think the whole arm is bent (at least I hope not) but even if it is couldn't I just get a new trailing arm?

Correct

Swap out the arm and frame then install the weld in camber and toe kit from e30tech as no one else seems to have it in stock.

http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80410

149.00 kit.