ireland posi lock= crap!!

[kman_e30]

does any one else hate or regret putting these on? mine are absolutely impossible to adjust to get my alignment correct, and the damn toe bolts keeps coming loose. im starting to think it would be better to just get a new subframe and do the camber only. anyone have any good ideas?

[SkiFree]

I haven't heard anyone regretting it ... in fact I hear the the opposite. If you're having trouble with these, I'd hate to think what would have happened had you used something else.

Now ... these aren't as easy to use as say operating an ipad or playing video games, but with a little common sense I think we'll find what works for you.

First: Doing one side only (camber) is not a very good idea as once you adjust the camber it will invariably affect the toe (since they are attached to each other on a trailing arm after all).

Second: Problems with toe and potential solutions
a) Toe is torqued to 60ft/lbs. It sounds like yours have not been torqued down (or your wrench is lying to you). Yes they are tricky to get to, but by no means impossible, or even difficult, once you figure out what works for you.
b) Try slipping the wrench over the front side of the subframe. You might even trim one down to help (I have a dedicated wrench for the task).
c) You can always add a fine thread lock nut (12x1.5mm) the bolts are long enough. (I can send some out if you'd like)

I can point you to many competent race-prep shops that swear by these things. If you'd like an actual shop to check things out, I'd be happy to refer to you local shops who are familiar with this setup.


and.... you can always try calling or emailing Ireland directly. My email is a n d r e w a d a m s @ i e m o t o r s p o r t . c o m

[kman_e30]

what are you using to get the arm to actually move during the alignment process? because mine will not move at all? even when the bolts are loose

[Holland]

No problems with mine.

[brent5631]

What rear bushings do you have installed?

[bimmerboy4444]

flexible ratcheting box end worked like a charm for me for both camber and toe bolts.

adjusting camber (all done suspension unloaded) max out the adjuster to the bottom of the slot then ues a pry bar to move it slowly up tell you get to the right spot.

toe in the toe adjuster all the way in then hock a cargo strap between the two shocks then ratchet to the right spot.

I agree the posi-lock style is way more finicky then a normal cam bolt but the range you get with the posi is ridiculous.

[einstein57]

I'm on the fence with these. I have the Bav Auto kit which is complete crap. They loosen on a weekly basis (installed by a factory trained BMW tech with 30+ years experience). I was going to have bullet performance do an alignment for me. Who do you guys recommend? I'm only at 300lbs of torque now. Can the kit remain tight under 450?


Complete crap

[SkiFree]

I'm only aware that BavAuto sells the adjustable bushings.

In terms of an adjustable rear end's ability to hold under torque the posi-lock will hold more than a bushing or eccentric adjuster (especially the eccentric adjuster that utilize a bent bracket as opposed to a machined bracket). This is because rather than the adjustment being done via a rotational movement (which will eventually slip given higher torque/bigger tire), it's done via locked teeth. (the side effect mentioned in this thread is that it's trickier to adjust but once it's locked in it's not moving [you can even double up with a lock-nut as well]).

That being said, given the torque you're pushing and the tires you're running, it would be a good idea to reinforce the area around the posi's to keep from bending the tabs in the first place.

Here's what I'm talking about ..... (this subframe was done by Precision Chassis Works in Arizona).

[jlevie]

The problem with the conventional type eccentric adjusters or the Posi-locks is loosening of the bolt. The necessary slot for adjustment of the arm end significantly reduces the bearing area for the inner bushing sleeve. Which in turn reduces the clamping force. The toe adjuster sees the greatest fore/aft load under acceleration and braking and that coupled with vertical motion of the rear wheels can allow the bushing to turn. Which in turn puts rotational on the clamp bolt and can loosen it. If the bushing doesn't turn, the bolt will stay tight. But my experience is that bushing turns (you can see that on the ends of AL sleeves) and the bolt loosens. Which is exactly what the OP describes.

My fix is an addition that locks the bolt, but still allows for adjustment. With Posi-locks, the bolt head could be tack welded to the plate. But future adjustments would be a problem. I've seen people tack weld the eccentric disks in place, only to find later that nut has gone missing.

[Smelser]

racing on dirt. You wont beleive what comes loose. we have some pretty amazing stuff vibrate loose from manifolds to carbs to control arm bushing bolts.
our soloution

LOCKTITE EVERYTHING

buy stock in that crap!!!!

[kman_e30]

Ya i ended up tack welding them in place

[brent5631]

What i have seen using IE trailing arm bushings with the IE posilock adjusters is the length of the metal sleeve in the bushings was too short. This meant when torqued the tabs pushed on the urethane instead of metal. So the joint eventually came loose.

I used posilocks with stock bushings where the metal protrudes and is the only thing touching the tabs. This gives sufficient torque and no loosening.

[michael325e]

Use a crown nut and cotter pin?

[essi1553]

Use a crown nut and cotter pin?

I love how this guy has ten posts, and just blew my mind. Granted the bolts probably dont have holes in them but im sure thats an easy switch.

[jrobie79]

use a crown nut and cotter pin?

ftw