SS brake line install

[Jordan325iC]

I've got the new Korman SS brake lines and a day off, so I'm thinking about tackling that.

Do I need any special tools (flare wrenches, tube benders, ect..)?
What's the best way to do the dreaded center lines?
What order should I bleed, remove old lines, install new lines? Like should I bleed each line individually, then remove old line, then remove new line, then bleed again? Do each line individually? In what order should do them?

[asubimmer]

start w/ the furthest from the master cylinder...ie back right. You can cut the old rubber hoses to make it easier to get a wrench around them and turn better. ONLY DO ONE LINE AT A TIME!!

[PeaveyBassist]

Remember, if you cut the old lines to get a wrench around it, it *might* still be a beyotch to get back on with the open end of the wrench. If you have em, use line wrenches. Also known as flare wrenches. Like Charlie said, bleed farthest away from the MC first. (right rear, left rear, right front, left front) and change one line at a time.

Will

[Jordan325iC]

What size flare wrenches?

Would dropping the diff make the center lines easier?

[NC325iC]

dropping the subframe would, you need i think an 11 and a 14 and the korman lines i think are standard sized

[wastedincome]

This reminds me to get new SS lines for when I do sub-frame and TA bushings. Even w/ small hands I've seen where them middle lines connect and wouldn't wanna try it w/ out the subframe removed.
Also get enough fluid to "flush" the entire system while your bleeding. ATE's colored fluid aids in flushing . (you can see the new fresh fluid)
my

[Jordan325iC]

How difficult is it to drop the subframe (special tools needed)?

Anything else I should do down there while it's dropped maintinence wise?

I read somewhere that you need a 14mm and 18mm cresent wrench. True?

[asubimmer]

you may want to replace your rear subframe bushings while you are down there

[NC325iC]

what he said, im waiting to do the middle lines when i do that

[Jordan325iC]

The subframe looks like a bitch! Not something I can do today if it has a list time of 5 hours. Am I just going to have to wait till a later date to do the centers or can they be done w/o dropping the subframe?

Also... 18mm flare wrench needed or not?

Edit: Also heard this can be done w/ some crowfoot heads and an extension. How long of an extension would I need?

[BM5W]

I was expecting the worst with the rear lines, but they weren't bad. Here are a few hints for the lines underneath the subframe:

Take off the end furtherest from the master cylinder. After you have done this, tread a closed end 14mm wrench over the old brake line and onto the other side of the brake line. Then use a 7mm to brake the other side lose from just in front of the subframe. You shouldn't have to hold the 14mm as it will be wedged tight up against something else.

For the passenger side I had to remove some heat shielding behind the exhaust piping, so that I could move my wrench enough to loosen it up.

Assuming your lines are rusted it should be pretty easy.

Yes, the Korman lines (Precision) are a standard size.

Good luck

[1990m3]

Korman lines are standard, they are the same ones that I got from Bimmerworld, a 15mm works fairly well too, I had zero stripping problems (I ditched all my SAE shit). Good luck, easy job

[DrMcDave]

it took me like 4 hours to do it all, but 90 percent was spent on that middle two bitch lines. I had to remove that exhaust cover thing as well.