Subframe Camber Adjustments

[6SPD]

Rear camber angles are highly dependent upon the tire width and aspect ratio and tire pressure. The SpecE30 regulations only allow 205/50-15 or 205/55-14 tires on 14x6 14x6.5 or 15x7 wheels. Those are fairly tall tires by todays standards. I wonder what the OP is running.

Currently running a set of Potenzas on Borbet Type A's at 16x7.5 and the tires are 205/50-16. I'll be running this size or possibly switch up to a 16x8 wheel.

[6SPD]

You should do it. They will dramatically change your tire wear, and give you the ability to hit these numbers. I recommend doing the braided brake lines at the same time.

It looks like I will definitely have to install the weld in camber/toe adjusters for the rear subframe to acquire the optimal contact patch.

Will I be able to acquire the proper camber adjustments from just the weld in adjusters? I ask because I've already completely refreshed my subframe with AKG Poly bushings everywhere and wasn't lowering the car at the time so I wasn't looking at riser bushings or anything fancy.

Also did the brake lines while I was back there :p

[SkiFree]

Will I be able to acquire the proper camber adjustments from just the weld in adjusters?

I don't see why not? Figure with the eccentric adjusters give you a certain range of adjustment, you can locate the plate to your advantage. With the "posi-locks" Your looking at nearly double the initial adjustment range so initial plate position isn't as important.

[JohnH]

I've already completely refreshed my subframe with AKG Poly bushings everywhere

Be aware that the poly bushes have less compliance than the standard rubber bushes and are therefore less able to adapt to misaligned pivot angles.

The most important adjustment on a road oriented car is for toe. You need to be able to dial back to standard settings to minimize inside tire wear.