Has anyone else installed "D Hole" style toe and camber adjusting bushing set ups in the trailing arms of an e30? Seems like to do it correctly I'd have to lower the crossmember that cradles the dif.
It's my first day
It's my first day
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It'd make the job a hell of a lot easier. Removing that subframe isn't too difficult.
Worth doing it to replace all the bushings anyways.
Plus it's nice to get intimate with her underside.2008 335i - n54b30
1991 318i - m52b28
1994 fzj80 - LAND CRUSHER -
Oh, I'm all about gettin intimate with her.Comment
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my issue is, I can't put the bolt through the right side of the bushing when the flange of the inner bush faces the outside of the trling arm. Its ridiculously confusing... but its not possible without lowering the subframe. So if I do all that then put it back together again and now I can't adjust the bolt head cuz there's no room to rotate it? That's why I ask if anyone's installed one.
It's my first dayComment
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This drawing would be of the Driver's side tr arm inside installation.
It's my first dayComment
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GD signature..Comment
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where in mass you located? I installed on on my e30...I did drop the subframe tho1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
1991 318i ---- 308K - retired
Originally posted by RickSloan
so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?Comment
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You will have to drop the subframe, sorry. Might as well do braided brake lines while you're in there. If you want to swap diffs, this is also the correct time to do that. Oh, and subframe bushings because the subframe will be out, and trust me, you don't want to do that more often than you absolutely have to.
Save the money, do it all at once the right way. It's certainly worth it.Drive it hard. Maintain it well.
Convertible Technical & Discussion
A Topless MemorandumComment
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So the adjustment is still possible once the subframe is back in place, but it must be real close quarters trying to turn those outer bolt heads. Or did either of you change the direction of the through bolt? J I'm in the Tri Town up by the old Searstown Mall. And Sir, I would love to replace all that (though my existing parts are in good working order) but I've reached my budget for now. My parts pile is decent. More stuff will trickle in but no more big spends (hopefully) til next year.Comment
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Any competent alignment shop should still be capable of turning them. I know mine doesn't have that problem and I also modified the mounts to be slotted.
Well the real problem with these adjustment bolts is that they don't always hold their position.2008 335i - n54b30
1991 318i - m52b28
1994 fzj80 - LAND CRUSHERComment
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I wondered about them staying put as well...
It's my first dayComment
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You guys seem to be talking about two separate things. OP, you seem to be talking about eccentric bushings, while drumad is talking about eccentric adjuster bolts and plates.
The bolts are known to come loose, but eccentric bushings should stay in place.Comment
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thejlevie had a good solution to keeping the weld in adjusters locked in place, IIRC he fabricated an arm with a socket welded to it (same size as the eccentric bolt) and locked it in place. I'm not sure on the details, perhaps you could PM him about it.
Also IE makes a "lock-style" serrated adjuster, not sure on the reputation on those style for loosening over time though.1991 318is --- currently not road worthy
1991 318i ---- 308K - retired
Originally posted by RickSloan
so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?Comment
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The eccentric bushing I'm using has serrated ends and the nut is serrated as well. As it sits now, I didn't lower the subframe. I assembled the outer set ups with the nut and bolt facing opposite the install instructions... when I get it to a lift on alignment day I'll assemble them correctly.
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