I'm pretty new to working on cars, but I get so much info online, I thought I'd make a post even though it might be really obvious to everyone.
I was following this post (http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112514) to replace the subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, etc, and I was worried when I got to the "burn out the bushing" part because I don't have a torch. I do have a heat gun and a 3/2 arm gear puller. I also used a dremel, and an old lug bolt.
I was able to get the bushings out pretty easily with minimal effort and minimal rubber burning. This should work for people with bushings that still have the center metal bushing attached to the rest of the bushing, if not, you're probably just going to end up cutting that out.
1. Remove subframe as per that thread. I couldn't figure out how to remove the hand brake lines from the front, so I ended up just removing them from the hubs.
2. Cut 2 tabs on the bottom flange of the subframe bushing using a dremel. The tabs should be on opposite sides. This is where the puller is going to be grabbing onto the subframe, so make sure the 2 tabs are in positions where the puller can reach the edge of the hole. Cut all the way through the flange, but don't cut into the subframe. There should be a little space between the flange and the metal of the frame, so just don't get carried away.
3. Fold up the tabs using pliers.
4. Put an old lug bolt in the hole of the bushing. Lug bolts have a super awesome divot in the center of them that's perfect to push up against and they fit perfectly in the metal part of the bushing.
5. Hook up the 2 arm puller and tighten the arms (I didn't realize until much later that the nuts/bolts on the arms of the puller are meant to be fully tightened after you attach them the way you want, then they don't move around! I just thought it was weird that they are loose or super tight...this is probably pretty obvious to everyone except me). Start pushing the metal bushing through the rubber bushing by screwing down the puller.
6. The metal part will push past the rest of the bushing before it starts getting difficult to tighten. When you feel significant resistance, just point your heat gun at the side of the bushings. The bushing will start to move, as it moves, just tighten the puller more and the bushing will pop out.
And you're done
Anyways, I don't know if this is news to anyone, but it was news to me and I didn't see anyone else use a method like this. Some people have special tools, etc, but I didn't want to bother.
I don't know how to post pictures correctly on r3v, so here's an imugr:
http://imgur.com/a/LqKiP#0
I was following this post (http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112514) to replace the subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, etc, and I was worried when I got to the "burn out the bushing" part because I don't have a torch. I do have a heat gun and a 3/2 arm gear puller. I also used a dremel, and an old lug bolt.
I was able to get the bushings out pretty easily with minimal effort and minimal rubber burning. This should work for people with bushings that still have the center metal bushing attached to the rest of the bushing, if not, you're probably just going to end up cutting that out.
1. Remove subframe as per that thread. I couldn't figure out how to remove the hand brake lines from the front, so I ended up just removing them from the hubs.
2. Cut 2 tabs on the bottom flange of the subframe bushing using a dremel. The tabs should be on opposite sides. This is where the puller is going to be grabbing onto the subframe, so make sure the 2 tabs are in positions where the puller can reach the edge of the hole. Cut all the way through the flange, but don't cut into the subframe. There should be a little space between the flange and the metal of the frame, so just don't get carried away.
3. Fold up the tabs using pliers.
4. Put an old lug bolt in the hole of the bushing. Lug bolts have a super awesome divot in the center of them that's perfect to push up against and they fit perfectly in the metal part of the bushing.
5. Hook up the 2 arm puller and tighten the arms (I didn't realize until much later that the nuts/bolts on the arms of the puller are meant to be fully tightened after you attach them the way you want, then they don't move around! I just thought it was weird that they are loose or super tight...this is probably pretty obvious to everyone except me). Start pushing the metal bushing through the rubber bushing by screwing down the puller.
6. The metal part will push past the rest of the bushing before it starts getting difficult to tighten. When you feel significant resistance, just point your heat gun at the side of the bushings. The bushing will start to move, as it moves, just tighten the puller more and the bushing will pop out.
And you're done
Anyways, I don't know if this is news to anyone, but it was news to me and I didn't see anyone else use a method like this. Some people have special tools, etc, but I didn't want to bother.
I don't know how to post pictures correctly on r3v, so here's an imugr:
http://imgur.com/a/LqKiP#0