Safety wire for toe/camber correction kits?

[Som]

I read all the concerns about bolts loosening up on the camber/toe adjustment kits (regardless of type).

Has anyone tried safety wiring the bolts? Is this a good or bad idea?

Regardless, I went and did it. :-|

I drilled a hole into a smaller nut and welded it to the top of the adjuster nut. At the very least, a 19mm deep socket fits over it fine (maybe even a regular socket might, too).

Then I drilled holes into the little walls of the IE "posi" adjusters I had. I then safety wired to those holes.

The bolts enter through the inside of each trailing arm -- so the bolt heads face each other on each side. All the holes drilled into the adjusters are towards the back of the car -- figuring it'll be easiest to get to those if I need to adjust.

I'm thinking there's still a possibility of *slight* loosening, though -- but I can't imagine it would be enough for the teeth to disengage.





Note: I didn't reinforce my toe adjusters since I'm not using the full length of the slot on those, but I did build up the 3 sides of the trailing arm mount for the camber adjusters.

And just because I'm kinda stupid, I actually first drilled small holes in my trailing arms because I hate safety wiring holes that are only an inch apart. While I realized they'd move, it wasn't until I was mostly done before I came up with a bunch of reasons why it was a bad idea.

Thoughts?

Som

[Som]

Btw... after I did this, and despite having done hours of research on this before, I found a comment mentioning using a castle nut and a cotter pin -- an idea I like much better.

To do that, I imagine you screw the bolt into the end-plate, then screw the castle nut down to the end-plate. Then weld the nut to the end-plate. The bolt ensures the threads of the 2 pieces line up once the bolt is removed. Then drill the bolt (and clean up the threads after) around the area where you would anticipate the castle nut to land after it's all tightened down. I'm guessing this last part is the tricky part if you haven't assembled it all first.

Too late for me, though. :)

Som

[FLG]

Get some condor bushings which are tapered and will eliminate binding and your bolts getting lose

[SkiFree]

Get some condor bushings which are tapered and will eliminate binding and your bolts getting lose

No. You have to understand that a softer urethane (like an 80a-ish) will not bind given it's ability to flex and memory retention. Then you've got umhw, which is close to being solid (well over 110a-equivalant) and will bind. Tapering is really only a selling point for someone going with rather stiff rear bushings (as someone learned the hard way).

OP, neat solution.