So I blew a line last night,, the pedal sunk and thank god it was right in front of my driveway lol I looked at it today and its not the main line right by the tyre (the easy one to change), but its the line underneath the driver side door that's attached to the subframe.. It looks like there's 3 lines right next to each other, and it just corroded and spurted a hole.. Is this one of the center lines that everyone talks about? If i got the 6 piece SS brake kit from bimmerworld or the korman set, does that include the line that just broke on my car? I've read a couple thread on how to put them on and all, but I just wanna make sure that I'm ordering the right parts..
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Project e30 m3 starts now..... :D -
Yeah sounds like the middle bitch line to me and yes if you bought the 6 piece stainless line kit then it comes with the line you need. Make sure you replace them all though, otherwise theyre pointless.Back to my roots
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Unlikely. The line that broke on your car was a hard steel line. The SS kit just replaces the rubber lines.Originally posted by jtuner
Get ready for some pain and replace all the rear hard lines.
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^word.
get some flare wrenches and universal line and bend it. you'll probably want to replace all the hard lines, cause they'll all start breaking when you start messing with them.
ss lines only replace the rubber lines, you had a hard line go.
if you take it to a shop though they will quote you for pre bent lines, which are a ton of money. get universal line, i forget which size,a nd do it yourself. it's going to be a biiitchOriginally posted by bluntComment
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BMW pre-bent lines don't even exist so you are better doing it yourself anyways.Originally posted by ColdAccord
Just get the straight sections from the dealer (they're not expensive) plus a ton of clips etc because you are going to break a bunch.Comment
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yuup took a look at it today, and it IS gonna be a bitch to bend and replace.. What I did in the mean time until I can get to a dealership is just used two compression unions and about 6 inches of 3/16 brake line.. Seems to be holding up well, even under heavy braking.. But it is definatly temporary lol Thanks for the replies ya'll.. The SS lines are still in the works for it anywayz :)Project e30 m3 starts now..... :DComment
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I didnt realize it was one of those hard lines. Ouch. Good call on bringing it to the dealer, that doesnt sound like a standard DIY job.Back to my roots
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It's not a standard DIY job but still doable. I had to repalce all the rear hard lines on my old 85 325e that had seen 15 years of Canadian winters. Ouch that was a pain.Originally posted by FifeDog236
They always break at the union that splits the rear line between the two wheels. The line going from the front has a nasty sharp bend in it and attaches to the T Junction on the drivers side and it corodes.
It also alerts you to the fact that the E30's supposedly seperate front/rear brake circuits are useless. As soon as the rear line blows, you pedal hits the floor.Comment
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yup that's very true,, It may be a F, F, RR split, but once you're out of hydraulic fluid you're SOL from there haha Thank god I'm an auto tech student, and have done this on a training aide at school.. I have a feeling it's gonna be a bit different on my car tho lolProject e30 m3 starts now..... :DComment
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Originally posted by FifeDog236
shure it is, all you need is a good tubeing bender (not an autozone special), a flaring tool and tubeing cutters. I had to do nearly all the hard lines in the back and the distrbution block when I did the SS lines and sub frame shit last fall.The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de TocquevilleOriginally posted by Fusion
The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken
Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
William Pitt-Comment
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Doing proper flares is not for the inexperienced. Especially bubble flares which are used on BMW's. You need experience and a good bubble flaring tool to make quality safe flares.Originally posted by mrsleeve
Do yourself a favour and buy the pre cut lines from the dealer.Comment
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re: brake lines replace
Any idea what kind of $ we talking about for pre-bent lines from the dealer? $100, $200, $300??? Mine are corroding on my '87 325is and starting to leak.Comment
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They are not pre-bent. You need ot bend them yourself. They are the right length though.Originally posted by 4bimmers
As an example from when I changed my rear lines on my car.
T-Junction (splits line from front to rear) - 34 33 1 163 566 - $16.00
Pressure Regulator to T-Junction (NON ABS) - 34 32 6 755 686 - $26.00
T-Junction to passenger hose under subframe - 34 32 6 755 567 - $12.00
T-Junction to drivers hose under subframe - 34 32 6 755 557 - $8.79
Passenger subframe hose to caliper hose - 34 32 6 755 590 - $12.00
Driver subframe hose to caliper hose - 34 32 6 755 590 - $12.00
Total $86.79 canadian
These were from the dealer and it was about 4 years ago. This was for a 85 325e without ABS so you'd need a different line from the front of the car for an ABS car but the other lines should be the same.Comment
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And...
If you don't have one. get an 11 mm line wrench or better yet a set. No more than you use them, cheapies are fine. I got a 9-17 mm set for $10 at a discount tool store.
The best for those pesky fittings on the body to rear subframe are these. They're Snap-On 3/8" drive and pricey Maybe the school has a set.
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Ah yes, the trusty crows foot...Originally posted by 1991 318isComment
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