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My recent brake job

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    My recent brake job

    Hi all,

    I recently sense that there is a noticeable wheel pull (to the left). I checked the control arms + bushings and they look fine (of course I just changed them less than 2000 miles ago). The wheels are balanced so I moved my focus to the brake. The master cylinder was leaking and was changed 500 miles ago. So I checked my caliper and sure enough they were stuck at front, so I rebuild them with help of a mechanic (to ensure I am doing the right thing). I install a set of new brake line and did a bleed job at the same time. I did not bother to replace my brake pressure valve because from the manual I was told that this valve is for front/end brake pressure distribution.
    That did not help and pulling is still happening, and I gave up, until my search on forum got me into looking at my ABS unit. I replace that with another one and finally the pull is 95% gone (I can't say completely gone because I can still sense a little, just a tiny little bit of pull).
    By now I throw my towel and declare it done. I know it's going to take a much longer time for me to sort out why I still have that 5% pull left. However, if you guys have any other ideas, please feel free to share with me. Thanks!

    Matthew
    Current:
    '88 325ic Silver 5sp
    '17 Subaru Outback 3.6R

    Past:
    '14 Rav4 EV (with tons of torque!)
    '06 325i Black 5sp
    '02 S4 Avant Black 6sp
    '00 Boxster Silver 5sp
    '98 New Bettle Yellow 5sp

    #2
    Have you had the car aligned?
    If so, what are your numbers?
    Suspension tips here...
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

    sigpic

    Comment


      #3
      It's possible that your rear calipers also need a rebuild. If you've done the fronts then it shouldn't be a problem for you, and the rebuild kits are pretty cheap.
      88 325is - S52 powered

      Originally posted by King Arthur
      We'll not risk another frontal assault, that rabbit's dynamite!

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks. I had the car alignment done about 1/2 year and I don't have the numbers in my head. As for the rear calipers, yes I will do that at the same time when I need to change my rotor + pad :)
        Current:
        '88 325ic Silver 5sp
        '17 Subaru Outback 3.6R

        Past:
        '14 Rav4 EV (with tons of torque!)
        '06 325i Black 5sp
        '02 S4 Avant Black 6sp
        '00 Boxster Silver 5sp
        '98 New Bettle Yellow 5sp

        Comment


          #5
          Thought you're "supposed to" check alignment after changing any major suspension/steering component -- control arms (and, if related, bushings), tie rods, struts, shocks, and spring. I use "supposed to" in quotes as I usually just wait and see how my tires wear before checking. :)

          I imagine sway bars is the only thing you can get away with changing without concern of changing the alignment.

          I'm guessing you changed your control arm/bushings after your alignment a half year ago?

          Som

          Comment


            #6
            If you changed suspension components and failed to get an alignment your numbers will be way off...it's the first, and most important, rule of thumb.

            Get it aligned and post your numbers. We will have much more to work with at that point...if it continues to pull.

            Pulling is usually a result of un-equal caster numbers.

            Tire pressures are good, right?
            Suspension tips here...
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/album.php?albumid=757

            sigpic

            Comment

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