subframe/rtab bushing replacement, subframe isnt lining up???

[lemansguy]

hoping someone on here has some ideas as to why i am having such a hard time with this... i dropped my subframe to instal condor speed rtabs and 12mm riser bushings, as well as rear diff bushing. all bushings are installed and i am currently in the process if trying to remount the subframe to the car. for some reason though, i can not get the aluminum sleeves inside the bushings to line up properly with the indentions in the car. i can only get 1 to line up, but the other is off my a cm or two. i did the drivers side first, and the bolt dropped straight in from inside the car, but the passenger side wouldnt lineup properly. so i took the bolt out of the drivers side and tried doing the passenger side first. passenger side went in great, but then the drivers side wouldnt line up.

sorry if this is a bit confusing, calling it quits for the night, so might be a little too tired to come across clearly.

thanks

[mr2peak]

How do you have the car jacked up? If the chassis is twisted, it will present a problem.

[Som]

Was a pain for me to line up the subframe, too. Took a lot of wiggling and cursing before it went in. I was probably only off by a mm or two, though. Not a whole cm. Is it a cm too far inboard of the body hole?

Probably a dumb question, but did you use the 12mm offset hole on the diff bushing, too? Guessing you'd have a much harder time lining up the subframe if you were using the 12mm subframe bushings but the centered diff bushing.

Som

[88BlackS-ETA]

I had the same problem, for me all I had to do was line the driveshaft bolts up and slide it into the diff and my subframe went right in to both holes.

[lemansguy]

How do you have the car jacked up? If the chassis is twisted, it will present a problem.

front tires are on the ground, rear end is in the air with two jackstand of equal height under the two jack point under the rear doors. car is in my garage on smooth level ground

Was a pain for me to line up the subframe, too. Took a lot of wiggling and cursing before it went in. I was probably only off by a mm or two, though. Not a whole cm. Is it a cm too far inboard of the body hole?

Probably a dumb question, but did you use the 12mm offset hole on the diff bushing, too? Guessing you'd have a much harder time lining up the subframe if you were using the 12mm subframe bushings but the centered diff bushing.

Som

i order the bushings as a kit from condor, but my diff bushing hole is centered. this shouldn't be an issue though, as i don't have the diff bushing bolted to the car, its just sitting in the slot waiting to be bolted. i left it unbolted so i could have more adjust-ability trying to get teh front bushings in. and honestly maybe it is only a mm or 2, ist really close, but i just cant get it in there. its slightly toward the inside of the car, so im trying to pull it out to get in the hole

I had the same problem, for me all I had to do was line the driveshaft bolts up and slide it into the diff and my subframe went right in to both holes.

my drive shaft bolts are in the diff, i have the nuts on but only a couple turns, again to give me more adjustability trying to line up the subframe.

thanks for all the responses guys.

[Som]

One thing that I think caused me problems was having one side in while trying to fit the other side. I seem to remember dropping it again and then trying to line up the holes before actually lifting the subframe in. I think I also used the drop bolts to help guide the subframe.

Also, I don't know if it helped, but I greased the top of the bushings to help them slide in.

Good luck!

Som

[matthugie]

You can try pulling the driveshaft (it really isn't much more work) to allow the subframe to move freely. Sometimes it's the angle of the subframe relative to the body (the body is at an angle but the subframe is level) that causes it not to go back together easily. Regardless of what you do, it will be a pain.

[lemansguy]

One thing that I think caused me problems was having one side in while trying to fit the other side. I seem to remember dropping it again and then trying to line up the holes before actually lifting the subframe in. I think I also used the drop bolts to help guide the subframe.

Also, I don't know if it helped, but I greased the top of the bushings to help them slide in.

Good luck!

Som

thats not a bad idea, i hadnt thought about havign teh bolts in first, the attempting to raise it up... ill give that a shot tomorrow after work

You can try pulling the driveshaft (it really isn't much more work) to allow the subframe to move freely. Sometimes it's the angle of the subframe relative to the body (the body is at an angle but the subframe is level) that causes it not to go back together easily. Regardless of what you do, it will be a pain.

ill consider that if it comes to it. its a little hard to tell but from what i can see, the driveshaft doesnt seem to be the limiting factor. might have to try and grab a buddy of mine to come over for an extra set of eyes.

thanks for the tips/suggestions guys, they are much appreciated. if anyone has anything else please post it up! ill update once i get a chance to go out there and work on it. should be tomorrow after work.

[E30NJ]

I took a file and lightly shaved the outer "ring" of the top of the bushing, and mine slid in fine. I also couldn't get mine to line up either but I stuck a threaded rod (same size as the bolt that goes through subframe), as a "line up" tool. Then I cranked down a nut with the original plate that sits at the bottom of the subframe, a viola it popped in. Just my

[Som]

I took a file and lightly shaved the outer "ring" of the top of the bushing, and mine slid in fine. I also couldn't get mine to line up either but I stuck a threaded rod (same size as the bolt that goes through subframe), as a "line up" tool. Then I cranked down a nut with the original plate that sits at the bottom of the subframe, a viola it popped in. Just my

Ah, I remember doing that now, too -- I tapered the bushing shaft a tiny bit to help it slide in.

The threaded rod idea isn't bad, either. I seem to remember that even when I got the holes lined up, it didn't just slide in on its own. I had to put the nut on the drop bolts and tighten them to press the bushing shaft into the body.

Som

[lemansguy]

thanks guys, i actually took a file and tapered the ends as well, but i twas because i tried hammering them up and mushroomed them a little. the threaded rod idea sounds really good as well. really appreciate the ideas!!!