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rear camber/caster adjustment part numbers

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    rear camber/caster adjustment part numbers

    Hi,
    I'm considering fabricating rear camber/caster adjustment as featured in http://www.e30m3performance.com/inst..._sub/index.htm.
    I went to my local BMW dealer to enquire about the cost of the eccentric bolts and washers.

    e30m3performance lists the following part numbers:
    p/n 33 32 1 092 310 bolt (M12 X 1.5 X 98mm)
    p/n 33-32-1-093-456 washer

    It turns out that 33-32-1-093-456 is infact a M10x66 eccentric bolt.
    33 32 1 092 310 is a washer that is used with a (M12 X 1.5 X 98mm) eccenric bolt (33 32 1 095 102)

    Since the subframe tabs are 78mm apart, I assume the the 33 32 1 095 102 (M12 X 1.5 X 98mm) bolt should be used, and that the 33 32 1 092 310 washer is used with it and the p/n listed in the article are wrong.

    Can anyone confirm my assumption or shed light on the subject in any other way?


    another question: what is the maximum correction (in degrees) that can this setup can produce?

    Thanks,
    Avner.

    #2
    So you got me thinking what's so special about the IE kit and found these posts from linky:

    Originally posted by Jason89i
    yes, they are eccentric bolts and eccentric washers from a 5er. they will cost you +/- 75usd from the dealer. you would not be able to make these plates without a full machine shop. definately not for the weekend welder. just buy the kit, pull the subframe (this is a must), slot the control arm holes (another reason to pull subframe), weld on the plates, put it back together and get your alignment.

    i suppose you could try to make your own kit and save $20, but jeff spent time and money developing this. its $20 towards research and development.....i think he diserves it. cheers, jason

    Originally posted by Borat
    the other thing is in extreme cases the 5er bolts may not have enough correction in them, because of this the IE camber kits come with larger plates and bolts for the inboard camber adjustment. This also means you have to bash up the floorpan, (another reason to remove the subframe). Also if you are running IE subframe bushes you will have to remove part of the lip off the bushing, there isn't enough room for the nut let alone a spanner. Also, I suggest putting the whole thing together (trailing arms, diff etc) and then installing it in the car. There just isn't enough room in there to hold the T/A inplace and slide the bolts through.

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