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Can't bleed rear brakes, Bad MC, PV, ABS air locked?

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    Can't bleed rear brakes, Bad MC, PV, ABS air locked?

    So it's a long story but here goes, I've got a 1989 325ix that surprise, the main rear brake line front to back rusted out and I need to replace it. I've done this before in my 1984 318i with little issues but that car didn't have ABS. I figured I'd tackle the job when I had some time and drove the car without rear brakes and used the e-brake to assist (big mistake as PO removed the left side since the backing plate stripped out the spring holders, yay) for a couple weeks while the parts came in.

    After a while of running without fluid in the rear I noticed I was now having problems in the front and my fluid was almost gone in the reservoir so I deduced that running without fluid in the rears drained the reservoir out and blew out the seals between the front and back brake lines on the master cylinder and I was pushing the fluid to the rear and out the rusted hose. Sweet, I've got a spare master cylinder so I replaced that. I replaced all of the lines and hoses from the proportioning valve all the way back to the calipers including a brand new T in the back. The calipers were sticking and acting funny so I bought rebuilt ones from bav and stuck those on along with new rear rotors. Basically the entire system from the proportioning valve back is brand new.

    I went to bleed the rear brakes and tried with a vacuum bleeder and with someone pumping the brakes up and every time I tried nothing came out of the calipers. The odd thing was is that after a bit of pumping from my brother I actually saw the right rear brake caliper squeeze up like it was getting fluid and being compressed but yet nothing came out. I've done this dozens of times before and never had a problem bleeding the brakes on ABS cars but I've also never fully ran out of fluid.

    I figured the ABS might be the cause so I put the car back together and drove it around a bit. The car was now doing the self-test on the ABS pump and that appears to be working correctly. The funny part about that is that when I start the car and hit the brakes initially there's not a lot of pressure and the pedal goes almost to the floor. I put the car in drive, go forward and hit the brakes and the pedal is stiff like it's perfectly fine, the ABS unit initiates a self test and then the pedal immediately sinks back to the floor and is worse off then when I didn't have the rear brakes in place. After a couple times of driving like that I tried to bleed the car again, nothing came out. I figured maybe I needed to have the car running and pass the self test to open it up so I ran the car up the street, got the self test to go, backed up and with the car running tried to bleed the brakes again and nothing came out.

    The REALLY interesting part is that when I look at the brand new coated Meyle rotors they are actually wearing in and getting used, WTF???

    At this point I'm at a lost. I've got brand need lines bent with a manual tube bender with the right diameter, brand new UUC stainless hoses, the rear brakes are working somewhat, not very well obviously with not fluid but no matter what I do I simply can't get the fluid to go through the system. I'm thinking air in the ABS but I've never experienced that before so am not familiar with the symptoms.

    Any ideas out there?

    Is my ABS unit air locked? Bad MC? Bad proportioning valve? Am I just smoking too much crack on my weekends?

    #2
    Bleed again.
    And again.
    And again.
    And again.
    And again.
    And again.
    And again.
    Until it is fine.

    Use a pressure bleeder.
    Buy a quart or two of cheap fluid.
    Then replace with good quality when pedal feel is satisfactory.

    Same old. Same old. ;-)
    Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

    massivebrakes.com

    http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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      #3
      I've pumped up the brakes about 20-30 times, held it, unscrewed the bleeder several turns with my ear to the hose attached to the bleeder valve and felt no air pressure and heard nothing.

      I was out there for about an hour trying this and the vacuum method of bleeding but no matter how hard I pushed on the brake pedal nothing came out.

      When I've bled them before after changing lines you can usually hear and feel the air move through the lines quite noticeably and it takes several times of pumping, bleeding and building up pressure again in order for the fluid to fill the lines and calipers. With this there was no change in pedal pressure even while removing the bleeder screw.

      Comment


        #4
        Your first mistake is undoing the bleeding screw too far. You can actually let air back in. You only need crack it open a 1/4 of a turn. Have a buddy pump the pedal while you crack the bleeder open.

        Crack bleeder valve, press break pedal to floor, tighten bleeder up, then have buddy take foot of brake pedal. Do this until your fluid is a solid stream and no air pockets.


        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
        1991 318i 4dr slick top


        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

        Comment


          #5
          The best method is to use a pressure bleeder, and while the bleeder screw is open, you gently pump the brake pedal to push volume of fluid (or air) while the positive pressure keeps fluid and air from sneaking back.

          You do all four corners. Then redo them again.

          Lee
          Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

          massivebrakes.com

          http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





          Comment


            #6
            I've already tried cracking it with the same results so in the course of troubleshooting I removed the bleeder to determine if that was an issue.

            Again, as stated previously I've done this several dozen times before with successful results but in this case its simply not pushing brake fluid through.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Massive Lee View Post
              The best method is to use a pressure bleeder, and while the bleeder screw is open, you gently pump the brake pedal to push volume of fluid (or air) while the positive pressure keeps fluid and air from sneaking back.

              You do all four corners. Then redo them again.

              Lee

              Yes and start with RR, then RL, then FR and then FL.

              The fluid just doesn't come out though.

              Comment


                #8
                Pressure bleeder. Cheap fluid til you get all purged.

                The pressure bleeder is worth its price. The risk of blowing seals, not getting the system bled, one man operation, time savings... is all worth it.

                If it is as you say, no fluid is coming out..... well.. there is either no fluid, no pressure to push fluid or you have a blockage/hole somewhere preventing flow. No fluid flows anywhere??
                ACS S3 Build / Dinan 5 E34

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just an update, got home and took a look at the ABS module and the ETM. I was able to get the ABS pump itself to turn on but I was unable to actuate the solenoids no matter what I did, car on acc, car started, car off, no matter what I did. I'm pretty sure at this point my ABS pump is locked up and the solenoids are stuck in the closed position for at least the rear. I think with the excessive brake dust on my front right I may have issues with the front left solenoid too. I'm going to run to my shop when I get some free time and see if I can't drum up a spare ABS unit and swap it out. That should hopefully fix my issue. I'll post back after getting it replaced.

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