Dropping subframe, few questions?

[HerbE30]

One of my main concerns is which way to pull the drift cable. I have seen people disconnect it from the drum/disc set-up, but if I were dropping to replace subframe, rtabs, diff would I have a harder time disconnecting from the handle and through the body? I haven't messed with the rear brakes aside from changing pads, rotors. I have read a few DIYs on this since I figured out most jobs have multiple ways to achieve the same installation. Also, I looked at a pelican article that said I would need a 9, 11, and 14mm flared wrenches to take apart the brake line, can anyone confirm if this is accurate and if one wrench of each will work?

Before anyone comments saying to replace all those springs etc inside that set-up. I have exhausted my budget and didn't plan on doing a whole brake job. I just got Brembo/Hawk. If its not an expensive job, I may consider. But please no bashing since I don't want to tackle the internals of the brake set-up.

Also, any cool tricks to stop the flow from the brake lines so I wouldn't have to bleed per-say. Will be reading more into awesome ways to bleed tonight. Any suggested articles/videos will be read/watched.

So, since I always worry that my English is bad I will post a bullet with main questions.

1. Which way is the easiest/best to pull brake lines to drop subframe for bushing overhaul?
2. What flared end/line wrenches will I need since I can only make one trip (hopefully it won't need multiple trips) and will one of each suffice?
3. Most recommended brake bleeding technique? (I have DOT 3/4 Synthetic, is this ok? Closest BMW dealer is 2 hours away.)
4. Any words of wisdom for this project?

[HerbE30]

I should note by drum, I mean how the shoes push akin to a drum. Its a 90 325i sedan.

In Delphin. :D Lots of work has been done. Not enough.
Will show off when I can repair the clear coat a bit and I get off my caps and back on my baskets.

[estoguy]

LINES/BLEEDING/FLUID: How old are the inner brake lines... if you're going in there, best to replace them, ESPECIALLY if they are original. Cheap fix and hoenstly, you don't want to do that job with the subframe in. Since you need to disconnect them, you're gonna have to bleed... no way around it. Dot 4 is the factory fill, use a good quality brake fluid, ATE, Fuchs, etc. If you got a buddy to help, do a manual bleed with one person in the car pressing the brake, the other doing the bleeding at the back. The E30 is pretty easy to bleed, but I've found it be sensitive... make sure you get all the air out, or you'll have a soft pedal.


I was planning on replacing my e-brake lines, so I just cut them when I pulled the rear subframe. Otherwise, you need to disconnect them from the rear hub.

You definitely need the 14 for the line end... I think the other side was the 11. I don't recall using a 9mm. The flared wrenches are ESSENTIAL. Jack it up and check before you start.

Are you doing all the bushings (subframe, RTABs) as well? go to e30zone.net and check out their homemade tools for pulling the RTABs... worked well for me, but you do need to heat the housing a bit with a blow torch to loosen them, then they come out super easy.

[gart]

If you're not planning on messing with the internals of the e brake I would try to pull the cables out through the tubes from the rear of the car. I had trouble doing this on my cabrio so I had to disconnect from the brakes themselves. Good luck.

[bumada]

I just did this. Taking apart the e-brake in the disc isn't too difficult. It's a couple half turn screws and springs that clip the shoes together. You'll need needle nose pliers and an allen wrench. You need a 14, 11, and no idea what the 9 is used for.

[gart]

^ assuming they are not frozen in the TA's

[Cooked]

1.Removing the parking brake lines from the trailing arms is likely the easiest, no need to feed them through the body of the car again. penetrating oil and vice grips if they are stuck.
2.I remember only needing 11 and 14mm. cant recall 9.
3.Dot4 is what you need. as for capping the ends, if you are replacing the old soft lines, use locking pliers to clamp them shut. or even elastic bands and a plastic bag over the ends of the hardlines.
4.fire and a big hammer/blunt chisel to get the old bushings out of the subframe and trailing arms. also can try a hacksaw to cut the outer bushing. makes it easier to remove with the chisel.

[HerbE30]

Update on my brake status, if anyone wants to know. (this ended up being longer tahn I thought, but its how I removed a stripped rotor hex bolt) So, since today I couldn't just sit around waiting for tools. I decided I should go ahead and change the rear pads and rotors, I had planned on doing it while the sub was down, but figured I'm used to doing it with the frame on. Damn, am I happy I did. On the passenger side, I allowed the rotor holding hex bolt and it stripped with low tq first spin. I smiled thinking it just twisted out. But nope. Also went through 3 allen sets looking for a 7mm. I ended up taking a biting bit for a couple hours and it was a complete circle so I decided it was ruined and I would have to replace the hub since I could not get the bit to bite into the stripped hole. Eventually took a standard bit, trying to drill out the head, quit with that, took a tap and die set (because I was trying anything) eventually after the hole, tapped threads, the biting bit (can not remember the actual drill bit name sorry guys!) pulled the head off the bolt and the threads and bolt shaft were still there tried to get the rotor off and it wouldn't, so I planned to bore it more that biting bit (haha so sorry) and the bolt eventually came out, no destroyed hub threads!!! It was a hassle.

Long story short, I took a look at the internals of the brake set-up. Actually didn't seem that bad. My only experience with spring tension at this point I used to set up Floyd Rose and Kahler systems on guitars.
Springs look rusty, as expected but how much of the internals should be replaced, cleaned and greased????

Also took a look at the lines, couplers, bolts. They all look pretty crummy. Time for stainless? Probably... I like ECS boxes in the mail anyway. haha.

@estoguy: I will check e30 zone for sure for that tool making suggestion. Thanks!

@gart: my original plan was to attach strong twine to the brake line before I pull it out of the body that way I have a string to pull back. Some of you guys worry me now that it would be destroyed. Still unsure.

@bumuda/cooked: I will be reading up on how to go about it that way. Assuming loosen the tension springs, look like 2? then I should have enough room to adjust that.

I was planning on propane torch, flat head, vise grips as well as the 5/8 bolt into the bushing rod.

Shout out, big thanks for everyone responding on the proper wrench size!

As for the parts Brembo rotors (OEM but still feels good to say)
Hawk HPS pads.
Full Condor rear bushing set up with 12mm riser, diff spacers. I'm hoping to have a happy 30 when I am done. haha.