E Brake HELP

[Nitro Nick]

Hey guys,

I got into this whole rebuilding the E brake at the wrong time. It started with replacing all of the regular brake components (rotors, pads, and paint the calipers)

Then realized when I replaced the rear rotors why my e brake wasn't working. It was because those e brake shoes were almost disintegrated.

First step - buy new e brake shoes, hold down bolts, and springs. Replaced them all and then realized the bottom actuator does not work as well as the E brake lines being partially seized. I have new actuators on the way and new brake lines.

Here lies my problem. I cannot get the old brake lines off for the life of me. I already cut the line end that connects to the actuator and also removed the nut by the actual e brake handle. The outer layer will not come out of the hub. Is there a trick to this or is it just rusted in there. Also the line in between the e brake handle and the outside of the car seems too small for the line and threading to get through. I'm guessing the outer layer came apart in there.

Any help would be appreciated as I will be trying to finish it once the actuators come in Wednesday.

Thanks R3v

[Seawolf]

Those cables are in a very tight spot where they exit the body and there's nothing to get hold of and turn when they get rusted in place.

So without further ado, here's how to actually do:

1) Cut the cable off at the ferrule with a Dremel and cutting disc (there's no going back from this point)

2) Pull the forward end of the cable out from inside the car.

3) Pull out the nylon cable sleeve from the ferrule under the car with needle nose pliers.

4) Fire PB Blaster into the cable tunnel through now empty ferrule.

5) Drill out the ferrule to 7/64" - you can't get a drill in there but you can get a drill snake to reach over the rear suspension arm.

6) Carefully tap an M8 x 1 thread into the ferrule.

7) Insert M8 x 1 bolt.

8) Steady the cable tunnel with channel locks to prevent bending or other damage.

9) Fit socket & ratchet on inserted bolt.

10) Heave.

11) Fire more PB Blaster into the cable tunnel and keep rotating the now freed ferrule.

12) Pull the bastard out.

Go and make a cuppa or pour yourself a glass of plonk depending on time of day.

- Now do the other side.

This sounds painful but it works without damaging anything,

Same method applies to the backing plates.

[Nitro Nick]

Those cables are in a very tight spot where they exit the body and there's nothing to get hold of and turn when they get rusted in place.

So without further ado, here's how to actually do:

1) Cut the cable off at the ferrule with a Dremel and cutting disc (there's no going back from this point)

2) Pull the forward end of the cable out from inside the car.

3) Pull out the nylon cable sleeve from the ferrule under the car with needle nose pliers.

4) Fire PB Blaster into the cable tunnel through now empty ferrule.

5) Drill out the ferrule to 7/64" - you can't get a drill in there but you can get a drill snake to reach over the rear suspension arm.

6) Carefully tap an M8 x 1 thread into the ferrule.

7) Insert M8 x 1 bolt.

8) Steady the cable tunnel with channel locks to prevent bending or other damage.

9) Fit socket & ratchet on inserted bolt.

10) Heave.

11) Fire more PB Blaster into the cable tunnel and keep rotating the now freed ferrule.

12) Pull the bastard out.

Go and make a cuppa or pour yourself a glass of plonk depending on time of day.

- Now do the other side.

This sounds painful but it works without damaging anything,

Same method applies to the backing plates.

Couple of questions.

On the backing plate of the wheel. are you just left with an empty hold where the new line goes in? Or is that a permanent metal tube that you insert the new cable and sleeve into. Same goes for on from outside the car to cabin.

The one on the hub looks like its seized in there but before I get to the hammer and punch option I want to make sure I wont mess anything up...

[Seawolf]

In both cases that is the cable ferrule you need to remove. You might be able to punch the hub end out but the body end can be a pia.

I had to break mine free with a 2 foot breaker bar on the bolt method listed above - so good luck with channel locks.

If you look at your new cables you'll see the ferrules at each end.

If you have to resort to method above, be careful when tapping the thread.....1/2 turn in 1/4 turn back with plenty of light cutting lubricant.

[Seawolf]

BTW...where in CT are you ?

[Nitro Nick]

BTW...where in CT are you ?

I'm in northeast CT right next to where Uconn is.

Can you get those new tubes? Or are those just what comes on the car. The new cables come with the protection sleeve(ferrule) on the side that connects to the hub. But there is nothing but the nylon sleeve that protects the part that goes into the body.

[Seawolf]

The tubes running in the body that lead to the parking brake handle are available though they are marked NLA on Real OEM.

As for the new cables you have, that doesn't sound right.

If you look at the cable you should have the hub end that has an eye that fits the parking brake shoe actuator, this is secured to the actuator with a short pin. The outer black cable cover has a stainless steel ferrule at the end, this fits into the backing plate, if the old one is seized in the backing plate you will need to get it out.

The other end of the cable is threaded and fits into the parking brake handle, there is a length of cable that is covered by a protective plastic sleeve. This end of the black cable cover also has a ferrule at the end, that ferrule fits into the body tube. The ferrule just slides into the tube but they seize in place, since the ferrule is the same diameter as the tube you might think it's part of the tube, but it isn't. Again if it's seized in the tube you will have to remove it.

If you're lucky then PB Blaster and channel locks might shift it but you have to be careful not to damage those rear brake hard lines which are in very close proximity. Mine were totally jammed in there so I devised the method above to provide some positive turning ability, like I said mine needed a breaker bar on the bolts - channel locks would never have worked for me.

So does your cable look like the description above ?