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Get a couple of ziplock bags ready because as soon as you touch the ebrake assembly its gonna fall apart on you. Start by removing the top and bottom springs and then the hex key bolts. After that, the ebrake shoes should be free. The bottom cable assembly is held together by a single pin that just needs to be popped out. I find it easier to lay the parts out on a piece of paper, keeping them in the same orientation as I remove them. Also, no matter how hard you try, it is impossible to remove the passenger side trailing arm bolt without disconecting the fuel filler hose. As long as you have half a tank or less, you should get away without spilling much gas, if any. Another thing, the bolts on top of the subframe that hold the diff are known for being a trouble spot. I suggest you go ahead and hit them with some pb blaster or something of the sort. That is all I can think of right now.
You can drop the subframe with the arms attached. I have never done it this way, but I think it is much easier to remove them with the subframe still in the car. This whole job is really not that hard, just a lot of wrenching. Are you just replacing the subframe bushings?
I removed everything together and put it all back on together. And honestly - it was a lot easier. You work hard to get the arms off and the diff off. Dropping it together worked great! Just use a jack to lower it down, and have a person on each side ot balance it.
For the ebrake lines, rather than mess with them in the hub, I said, fuck that. I removed them entirely from the ebrake handle, and pulled them out a little wase (since I left my arms beneath the car) This was more doable for me since I have no rust. Someone with rust will have trouble either way, actually. It was a lot easier than messing with getting the whole ebrake piece taken apart in the hub. That thing is just a pain in the ass.
You have to disconnect the ebrake cables, but be careful that you do not catch them on something when lowering the subframe and damage the tubes they run through. I lowered the subframe a little, removed the differential, and then pulled the subframe with the trailing arms attached. I found it much easier to work on out of the car and was changing the subframe bushings.
You have to disconnect the ebrake cables, but be careful that you do not catch them on something when lowering the subframe and damage the tubes they run through. I lowered the subframe a little, removed the differential, and then pulled the subframe with the trailing arms attached. I found it much easier to work on out of the car and was changing the subframe bushings.
Yea, I had someone in the car guide out my ebrake cables. worked pretty good.
Still got to get my subframe and trailing arms to the sandblasters...can't put the stuff in without doing that. This way, I'll never have to worry about them again.
im doing the whole assembly as one, got the ebrakes out, not as complex as i thought itd be, getting one of the rotors off took forever thank the lord for my BFH (hammer of thor), all that i have to do now is unbolt the subframe and the diff and lower it out. then hopefully get lucky and have my half ass tool remove the bushings.
Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninja
Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
can you lower the subframe with the differential and trailing arms attached or the diff's gotta got first for sure?
No more e30s for me.
88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
91 BMW 325i [sold]
86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold] http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs
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