brakesvery mushy...

[haaken675]

Hey guys. I just picked up n '87 325is yesterday and couldn't be happier to finally have an e30 again! It definitely going to be needing some work, but that's what these cars are great for, right?

I believe the car does not have ABS due to the year, and I did a VIN check and didn't see that listed either. When braking, it takes several pumps to really get any bite out of the brakes at all, and really didn't inspire confidence on the drive home. Would bleeding the brakes be where I should start, or does someone else have a better suggestion as to where to start? For reference, the guy I bought it from said he recently put new pads and rotors on. I can definitely confirm that the rotors are new, so I would believe he wouldn't' lie about the pads at least.

THanks

[HerbE30]

I would bleed the brakes first thing, no doubt. When I did I found dust in my lines. And when you have the wheels have just have a look at pads and rotors.

[jlevie]

An 87 325is would normally have ABS.

The first check would be to make sure that there are no leaks in the system. Note that the master cylinder can leak into the brake booster and leave no evidence until the booster fails.

Flushing and bleeding the brake system would be the next place to start. A pressure bleeder is the best method. Push a measured 350cc through one rear caliper and 150cc through each other caliper, ending with the left front. Then upend the bleeder and continue to bleed that caliper until the reservoir level is correct. That prevents making a mess. If you spill brake fluid fluid on paint, wipe it off and then wipe with denatured alcohol. I like ATE Type 200 fluid, usually means an on-line purchase. I liter is sufficient for a flush.

If the car has a manual transmission, flush & bleed the clutch hydraulics while doing the brakes.

If you get to this point and still have mushy brakes, the master cylinder is the next likely suspect. Use only an OE or OEM part.When replacing the master cylinder, use a bit of rag on the end of a wire to look for fluid in the brake booster. if there is fluid there, replace the booster. Brake fluid or oil will destroy the booster pretty quickly.

Since the brake fluid needs to be changed every two years, purchasing a pressure bleeder is a wise investment. It makes flushing & bleeding a one man operation that goes really quickly.

[haaken675]

An 87 325is would normally have ABS.

The first check would be to make sure that there are no leaks in the system. Note that the master cylinder can leak into the brake booster and leave no evidence until the booster fails.

Flushing and bleeding the brake system would be the next place to start. A pressure bleeder is the best method. Push a measured 350cc through one rear caliper and 150cc through each other caliper, ending with the left front. Then upend the bleeder and continue to bleed that caliper until the reservoir level is correct. That prevents making a mess. If you spill brake fluid fluid on paint, wipe it off and then wipe with denatured alcohol. I like ATE Type 200 fluid, usually means an on-line purchase. I liter is sufficient for a flush.

If the car has a manual transmission, flush & bleed the clutch hydraulics while doing the brakes.

If you get to this point and still have mushy brakes, the master cylinder is the next likely suspect. Use only an OE or OEM part.When replacing the master cylinder, use a bit of rag on the end of a wire to look for fluid in the brake booster. if there is fluid there, replace the booster. Brake fluid or oil will destroy the booster pretty quickly.

Since the brake fluid needs to be changed every two years, purchasing a pressure bleeder is a wise investment. It makes flushing & bleeding a one man operation that goes really quickly.

That is an awesome checklist. I appreciate that. Ill start by flushing and bleeding the brakes and take it from there. Hopefully I don't need a new master cylinder. It felt like there was no ABS when I test drove the car, but maybe its just the guy didn't install the new pads properly.

[RampageRR]

Keep in mind that the master cylinder internal seals can fail internally as well - mine did without any external leaking. Symptoms are brake pedal going to the floor on moderate stops, but pumping them once or twice immediately restores braking temporarily.

I replaced my MC, bled the system, and no issues whatsoever since. Definitely a million times better.

Mine is also an '87 and it *does* have ABS.

[haaken675]

Keep in mind that the master cylinder internal seals can fail internally as well - mine did without any external leaking. Symptoms are brake pedal going to the floor on moderate stops, but pumping them once or twice immediately restores braking temporarily.

I replaced my MC, bled the system, and no issues whatsoever since. Definitely a million times better.

Mine is also an '87 and it *does* have ABS.

That sounds exactly like what my car is doing...Hopefully I will be able to mess with it this weekend. Battery went dead since I haven't driven it since I picked the car up and my battery charger broke...Ordered a new one and still waiting on it...Thanks amazon.

[haaken675]

Could a vacuum leak cause the brake booster to not function properly. I had a few minutes yesterday to take a quick look at the car while running. The motor isn't running 100% at the moment and haven't really had the time to go through it thoroughly yet. Since the revs tend to hang, it sometimes seems like it's going to die if you blip the throttle from idle, etc. makes me think potentially there is a vacuum leak. Could this be a potential issue?