Weld-in reinforcements

[Austrianvespaguy]

Hi all, which weld-in reinforcements are the most helpful/important? Going to have the rear subframe off here shortly to do the bushings, and wondering if it's worth welding anything in at that point. Won't bother if it's not all that necessary, but if any are true known weak points, I figure I ought to go ahead and address them now! Thanks!

[AndrewBird]

Toe/camber adjusters for sure.

[kronus]

If you're doing heavy track work, the trailing arms can bend, which will confuse your suspension geometry. There is some bracing on Z3M arms that can be emulated to help against that.

The subframe itself is a big fat hollow tube, they rarely have problems.

If you have a decent chunk of torque, see about adding a second diff mount.

[SkiFree]

weld-in:
-posilock camber/toe
-endlink reinforcement plates
-trailing arm reinforcement isn't a bad idea, it's doesn't happen too often, but it is something worth doing.

bolt-in:
-swaybar pivot mounts (billet IE version)


and that's all that is needed on the rear subframe of a mild track car.

[LateFan]

the trailing arms can bend, which will confuse your suspension geometry.

What sort of movements would a bent trailing arm produce?

[HerbE30]

What sort of movements would a bent trailing arm produce?

I saw your other thread, I meant to post. But a menial low detailed reply wouldn't compare to other gurus on this forum, so I planned to leave it to the experts.



When I 'suspected' a bent TA, it would always slide to one side easier, when wet or just kicking it. I did notice 'weird' feelings when the suspension was under compression and would behave erratic when cycling through rebound. ie weird steering movements. I am by no means a professional driver or do I claim to have a vast knowledge of suspension geometry. So take that with a grain of salt.



Must have been pretty corked though, I was unable to separate the axle or the hub. Broke 3 studs using a HF hub separator.

[LateFan]

Interesting. And at least 20% accurate!

I'm trying to determine whether it's in steering / camber / caster, or a bent TA. We're gong to put the adjustable mounting plates on the rear subframe next, just to get the camber normal and stop eating tires.

Thanks!

[HerbE30]

Interesting. And at least 20% accurate!

I'm trying to determine whether it's in steering / camber / caster, or a bent TA. We're gong to put the adjustable mounting plates on the rear subframe next, just to get the camber normal and stop eating tires.

Thanks!

Look at the TA when you can. Usually there would be slight peeling or cracking of paint. That's how I decided my issues were caused by a bent arm.

[LateFan]

We looked them over with bright lights and other than the grime they look smooth, nothing funny I can see. We don't have the right dowel yet to check the alignment of the holes, but eyeballing down them with a light they appear to line up fine.