stiff pedal...change MC booster pads and rotors........

[etxxz]

...i just took a look, if there is any leaks, its in the front connection to the intake manifold and that seemed fine + the engine runs so well that indicates no leaks. even tested with propane.

I should also mention that the pedal is hard even when the engine is off ~ 0 brake power and car rolls freely. any more suggestions?

[Vedubin01]

does the peddle sit in stock position? Meaning not on the floor or anywhere around the floor? Is there a way to manually engage the booster outside the peddle cluster?

[etxxz]

pedal sits in the stock position (fully depressed, not on the floor) and seems like it will be real hard to push it manually if i can't push it with my legs. Checked for vacuums after installing my spal fan. Nothing. dammit, i think its the booster, not the abs unit. how would i know?

[etxxz]

guys, i don't wanna be a PITA but i need to roll on the 16th. please lend me your brains.

if it helps any, i unbolted the MC today, checked o-ring = okay. Then partially put its nuts back on, pressed on the pedal/booster and it kiks fine untill it hits the MC then its stiff again. is this a valid booster test? checkvalve is also okay and oriented correctly.

Now, i checked the junkyard car and its brakes worked nicely. before installation, i also checked by compressing with hand and okay. will an unplugged abs unit make the car not brake correctly? i don't remember wiring anything for the abs unit during the swap.

[Mike B.]

My best guess is a failed booster based on your symptoms. If the membrane is damaged, the booster won't hold vacuum. No vacuum = impossibly hard pedal.

I don't know of a way to test this other than install a new booster. Anybody have a test for this?

[rcko]

i hear you bro and understand the issue. I would loosed the lines feeding ABS manifold and try pumpin again. If fluid comes out then you know it aint the MC. I would then do the same on the output side of the ABS unit.

WOrse case, I would retube from the mc to the lines coming out of the ABS unit feeding the brakes. Should three tube: LF, RF and one for the rear. Once you bypass the ABS manifold and you still got issues then you know it is either the MC or booster.

Hope this helped

[etxxz]

^^ the test makes a whole lot of sense! mike ty u were right.

i undid a line before(inlet to) the abs, push got softer as fluid came out.
undid a line coming out of the abs, push equal as fluid came out. ~ ABS & MC okay.

conclusion. bad booster. i'm going down to the junkyard and get myself another ix/7'er/5'er booster and mount it directly to the wall, no spacer and make room for my resevoir/throttle line. Thank you guys. will post when its all solved....i'd hate to waste that nice bluie fluid that i bought.

[etxxz]

well...i paid for a booster yesterday. took mine out today and found the problem.

IT WAS LEAKING! mdfkr!!! the leak was in the plastic grommet on the booster where the checkvalve connects to. With the booster off and MC installed on it, i put my mouth to the checkvalve and sucked as hard as i could and sure enough, i could hear the leak. i wonder if i can find this piece.

[Mike B.]

You can get rubber grommets for this area. I should have a spare in my garage I can throw in an envelope and send it to you. PM me your address.

[etxxz]

^^ :thumbsup

now, in good spirit of this find, i re-tested the booster by putting my mouth on this hole and sucking as hard as i can. i didn't hear a leak so i reinstalled the booster w/ some space mods....worst case i get a good booster on Wed. I'll wait for that grommet mike, will probably the solution to my brakes. thanks a bunch

...and i need to add goodies to my wiring thread and the 24v thread :d