control arms...

[VAPORBLADE]

I am changing my control arms because they are pretty much shot. I am probably going to go with the steel ones again....what else should I change when I am in there? I am looking for performance items...

TYIA

Josh

[VAPORBLADE]

I will do the sway bars at the same time - I am looking at Eibach or Racing Dynamics....

[Mike325]

CABs as well. Maybe tie rod ends too.

[StereoInstaller1]

I am changing my control arms because they are pretty much shot.

Josh, what do you mean your "control arms are shot"? Do you mean your control arm bushings are shot? Ball joints shot? Did you curb the thing violently and bend the shit out of the control arms?

If it is just the ball joints, go Lemforder or other OE quality and replace just the ball joints. No sense replacing the whole thing, unless you like to have spare parts lying around (like most of us). You will have to have them pressed out and in, but it is so much cheaper...just do it.

If you are gonna get in there and you haven't changed your CABs, do so now. Personally, I run the ("70a" hardness) urethane from AKG. Andy at AKG convinced me to NOT use the M3 offset...he said most people are better off not having the M3 offset since it slows turn-in (parking and such is harder) and only helps high speed stability (speeds over 80mph or so).

I was looking for the softest urethane I could find...I did not want the harshness or vibration. I think they are perfect.

New urethane CABs are so easy to install and such an improvement, especially in braking "shudder", I think they should be the very next upgrade after struts.

I also recommend you go find a 22mm "stubby' wrench to ease the job.

Good luck!

Luke

[BDSax]

hahaha, have fun.

i did my control arms, CABs, bilstien sports, and new springs. to get the passenger side control arm off, i had to take of the exhaust. it was a pain in the ass put after it was off i just used an air socket to zip it right off.

[VAPORBLADE]

Thanks guys!

Yeah, the arms are not shot - but I know the bushings are, and I am sure the ball joints need to be replaced on the drivers side. Good call on the tie rods - I will do those as well.

I have heard about the IE bushing, and I have seen mixed reviews. I am happy you mentioned the M3 offset, I was going to go that way.

I want to do the GC coilover - but I am trying to find a set of good M3 front strut housings first. AGHHHHHHHHH!! What a PITA. The only reason I want to hold off on the GC's is because I think I need to do the 5 Lug conversion before I do the other items. So i figured what the heck can I do while I am searching for the housings? hmmmm...control arms, and exhaust, oil pan, and paint the valve cover and intake. LOL.

Josh

[AdironRider]

Get the m3 CABS. I didnt notice any increased steering effort when I was parking after I installed em and handling only improved. Definately replace the tie rods while you in there as well, cheap and easy.

Just remember to get an alignment afterwards. This is critical.

[VAPORBLADE]

Will do! :) I cannot wait! I want the "handling dept" finished by spring! :)

[Mike325]

You should not have to remove the exhaust FYI. It is tight but is doable. Good luck. Just remember to put a floor jack under the inner ball joint as you try to remove the nut. The ball joint may tun on you and you will be killing yourself for nothing.

[VAPORBLADE]

Good info! I will remember that. Thank you!

[AdironRider]

I always found it much easier to put a jack under the subframe, loosen the 2 bolts on each side, then lower it down about an inch or two via the jack and get at the ball joint from there. Requires two jacks but its so much easier.

[MikesJo]

How do you know if a control arm is shot?