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IE *REAR* camber/toe kits... opinions?

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    #16
    Originally posted by e304me View Post
    what settings are you running adam? My car will mainly be a street car with some de`s so i was thinking like 0 or .05 degress toe in and like 1-1.5 camber
    Sounds about right. I don't remember my exact numbers off the top of my head. I'm due to have it all set back up again so I'll be able to update after I have it done.
    Adam Fogg- '88 M3

    Common sense- It's the new 'gifted'

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      #17
      Originally posted by iflytii View Post
      I just did 2 subframes using the IE kit last month. They both came with BMW hardware. However, the kit I used for my 2002 used BMW bolts for toe and an eccentric washer tacked to a bolt for the camber adjustment. Are you sure you guys aren't confusing the two kits? The first pic I've attached shows the camber adjustment for the 2002. Notice how much more adjustment is available (need for a larger eccentric washer). The second pic shows where the ie subframe bushings need to be trimmed to allow adjustment on the e30 subframe.
      Same as my E30 kit. the toe used bmw bolts but the camber had more adjustment so needed different bolts.

      No rubbing issues with mine, just remember to bash up the floor pan a bit before you install.

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        #18
        Another way to remove excess camber and toe on lowered cars is the same principle as used on 2002s. Just "raise" the subframe. On 02s, it is done by reversing the subframe mounts. On e30s, one must use solid mounts and shave 12 to 12.5mm off the top of the mounts. The diff must been moved down by inserting 12mm shims between it and the subframe. I did that on a friend's M3 this summer as it had excessive rear camber and toe. It worked marvel.

        Certain European shops will sell solid mounts already "shaved". Muzzi does them.
        Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

        massivebrakes.com

        http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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          #19
          Lee that sounds awesome but what do you do about the rubber mount on the diff? Hack off the ears that it bolts through and weld on 12mm of sheet metal extending it down? Or am I not getting something

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            #20
            Originally posted by Mossman View Post
            Lee that sounds awesome but what do you do about the rubber mount on the diff? Hack off the ears that it bolts through and weld on 12mm of sheet metal extending it down? Or am I not getting something
            if you shim the diff down then the rear mount will be in the same location as stock.

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              #21
              Hi Mossman.

              There are two ways to deal with it. The usual way is to insert a 12mm shim between the diff and the subframe. This way, it keeps the rear half of the driveshat in its stock position. The other way requires solted diff mounts to raies the diff, along withy the subframe.

              BTW Those are racing mods. Which means that subframe and diff mounts will be solid steel or billet aluminum.
              Brake harder. Go faster. No shit.

              massivebrakes.com

              http://www.facebook.com/pages/Massiv...78417442267056





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