BBK (Appropriate), Fit, Brands

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  • matt
    replied
    Originally posted by Massive Lee
    Changing MC size will NOT affect bias. Both chambers in the MC have the exact same diameter.
    Both chambers in the stock master cylinder do not have the same diameter. One is 22mm and one is 17mm. Both chambers in the common 25mm M/Cs are the same diameter. Thus, the bias changes.

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  • Massive Lee
    replied
    Changing MC size will NOT affect bias. Both chambers in the MC have the exact same diameter.

    Leave a comment:


  • matt
    replied
    As long as you put in the 325i master cylinder, you should have the same brake bias as a STOCK 325i.

    Your car isn't a stock 325i is it?

    Your car is lower all around and lighter in front than a stock 325. Both of those factors point to you needing more rear bias.

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  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by matt
    Changing master cylinders will also change your brake bias in many cases.

    More rear bias is usually good.
    I don't believe brake bias will change in my case, I am installing 325i calipers and rotors upfront, and 325i trailing arms. According to another thread the proportioning valve is the same on the 318i and 325i cars so there are no other differences ..

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  • Mike325
    replied
    Originally posted by matt
    Changing master cylinders will also change your brake bias in many cases.

    More rear bias is usually good.
    Yes, to a point. Too much will cause the rears to lock up and that is not a good thing.

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  • matt
    replied
    Changing master cylinders will also change your brake bias in many cases.

    More rear bias is usually good.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2002maniac
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean
    I am going to be ordering a new MC and wanted to confirm something.

    What options do I have if my car does not have ABS ? Am I limited to just the early 325i/e non abs MC as all others are abs units ?
    you can use a master from a car with ABS. You just have to tee off the port for the front.

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  • Mike325
    replied
    Originally posted by rede30
    How are the non abs MC different? It seems like you could use any MC and if that doesnt fit onto your booster than you could get a later e30 booster.
    The non abs masters have three line connections, the abs ones have two.

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  • rede30
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean
    I am going to be ordering a new MC and wanted to confirm something.

    What options do I have if my car does not have ABS ? Am I limited to just the early 325i/e non abs MC as all others are abs units ?
    How are the non abs MC different? It seems like you could use any MC and if that doesnt fit onto your booster than you could get a later e30 booster.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    I am going to be ordering a new MC and wanted to confirm something.

    What options do I have if my car does not have ABS ? Am I limited to just the early 325i/e non abs MC as all others are abs units ?

    Leave a comment:


  • JRKOUPE
    replied
    Originally posted by Massive Lee
    Joel.

    On track, you should NEVED have pads that are more than 50% worn. That is because the thinner the pads, the larger the distance the caliper is on the sliding pins. This creates flex and pedal travel. This initial flex will be perceived by a longer pedal travel before the pads start biting. If you want to use pads to the fullest, then grab a used (worn out) set of pads, grind away any trace of compound and keep only the backings to use as spacers. This will help firm up the pedal. Racers will install stainless steel plates to help keep heat away from pistons. The Ate calipers are stiffer than the Girling ones and have a better sliding system. You must swap the carriers along with the calipers.

    Heat is the worst ennemy of brakes. When driving with brakes with flex, that requires to brake earlier and brake longer, which generates even more heat that will kill the brakes even more. It is a vicious circle because as it kills brakes, you need to brake even earlier and longer... Airducts help get rid of excess heat.

    Lee......
    thats some great info,.... thanks for the education..........

    Im still considering your frt kit regardless!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike325
    replied
    I have a very nice set-up imo. Here is what I have:

    25MM master from an e32. Got it new from flying brick for $125.
    Turner SS flex lines. Do all six of them.
    Stock rotors with axxis ultimate pads.

    My pedal is firm as hell and will lock the front wheels with a little more than 1/4 pedal travel. It is very easy to heel-n-toe as well. You would like this set up if you like a firm, higher pedal.

    Leave a comment:


  • Massive Lee
    replied
    Joel.

    On track, you should NEVED have pads that are more than 50% worn. That is because the thinner the pads, the larger the distance the caliper is on the sliding pins. This creates flex and pedal travel. This initial flex will be perceived by a longer pedal travel before the pads start biting. If you want to use pads to the fullest, then grab a used (worn out) set of pads, grind away any trace of compound and keep only the backings to use as spacers. This will help firm up the pedal. Racers will install stainless steel plates to help keep heat away from pistons. The Ate calipers are stiffer than the Girling ones and have a better sliding system. You must swap the carriers along with the calipers.

    Heat is the worst ennemy of brakes. When driving with brakes with flex, that requires to brake earlier and brake longer, which generates even more heat that will kill the brakes even more. It is a vicious circle because as it kills brakes, you need to brake even earlier and longer... Airducts help get rid of excess heat.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2002maniac
    replied
    Stay stock with nice pads (this advise coming from a guy who has a BBK).

    Leave a comment:


  • JRKOUPE
    replied
    Originally posted by Massive Lee
    For street, you will not need any BBK. Simply make sure you have the ATE calipers/carriers and not the wimpy Girling ones. Check that your pads are not more than 50% worn at the front and back (that is because the more the pads are worn, the further the caliper is on the guiding pins, which leads to extra flex), and that the system is properly bled. You can remove the front heatshield if you experience a bit of overheating. And that's it.

    If you feel your brakes are not powefull enough, even when not abused, then change your brakepad compound. That means get a pad with a compound designed to operate at low and mid temps. What brand of pad do you currently use? believe me or not, the pads that came OEM on e30s is quite a good and cheap pad. Try a set of OEM Jurid. To save a bit of $, buy the ones for the 190 Mercedes as they are a bit cheaper than BMW fitment. If you want a firm pedal with limited travel, then go to a 25.4mm master cylinder from 750iL. It sells for under $150 at FlyingBrickPerformance. 135% stiffer and 65% pedal travel.




    ...from a man that sells BBK's that is a very honest and appropriate response!!!!..touche. Very good advice for sure . I track a mostly stock engined e 30 and run SS lines, stock calipers, no ducts, AP juice and hawk ht 10......pedal feels great.

    hey Lee.....

    I have wimpy girlings but I did not know Ate were better?.....are they stronger? I often get some brake shudder when pads get low and I assumed it was flex rearing its head......can a Girling calipered car be swi
    tched to Ate?.... mainly concerened about fronts.........hmmmmm. THANKS........!!!
    Last edited by JRKOUPE; 03-24-2007, 09:10 AM.

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