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    Brake Recomendation and Question

    Well i have a 318is and live in the hills so im constatly pushing my brakes to the limit every mouring on the way to work. That by the time i get down the hill the brakes don't work so well.:evil:

    So im going to change to some cross drilled discs and bradied lines. I want to know if it is worth changing to 2 pistons or 4 pistons.

    Also i would like to do it on a buget so some second hand ones would be good keeping in mind i have 14" basketweaves. What would you guys recommend and if i change the calipers what else needs to be done.

    Thanks

    Massimo
    sigpic

    #2
    Change your fluid first. Sounds like you are boiling the fluid in the calipers causing crappy pedal feel. Otherwise, I would say throw some Hawk pads and some SLOTTED rotors. The reason I say that is the brake disk is basically a big heat sink for the braking system. If you take away material (like in a cross drilled situation) you reduce the amount of total heat sink area.
    My 2.9L Build!

    Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
    There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

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      #3
      That sounds just like what i need. Thanks i never thought about the surface area differance between cross drilled and slotted.

      What would you recommend in the caliper upgrade i wouldn't mind a bit more stopping power down hill.

      Cheers
      sigpic

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        #4
        Well, you don't necessarily need different calipers. I would give a different pad selection a try before spending a bunch of money on calipers. Take a look at the different pads and see what the fade temperature of the pads are. I know the PBR/Axxis Ultimates have a fade temperature of, somewhere in the neighborhood, around 900*F. When the brakes get to that temperature, they start to feel squishy and you lose a lot of braking performance. Look at the Hawk and Performance Friction pads. I know a LOT of people like them.
        My 2.9L Build!

        Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
        There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

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          #5
          Better pads, fluid and plain rotors are all you need. Your braking technique might be flawed and might be a contributor to your problems. When descending a long hill, selecting a lower gear to take advantage of engine braking is often a good idea. When descending the hill, use the brakes hard to reduce speed well below normal speed, then allow the car to coast back up to speed w/o touching the brake pedal. That intermittent use of the bakes for short hard pulses give the braking system time to cool in between use.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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            #6
            Alright ill give some new high temp pads a go. As for my braking i only ever brake using the hill and toe method so im always using the engine to slow the car down. Oh and i do drive abit hard so short long burst at the brake is usually how i do it.

            Well once i get it done ill let you all no how it is. Cheers

            Massimo
            sigpic

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              #7
              Be sure to flush your fluid completely as well. Sounds like you have toasted what is in there, if its ever even been changed.
              sigpic

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                #8
                Dot 4 fluid, good lines and bmc, good solid rotors and pads FTW.
                Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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