Bolt removal on control arm question....

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  • 3bvert
    replied
    did not have a Metric crows foot, broke em loose wiht metric wrench, then used a sae crows foot and sae gear wrench, near enough same size
    even had an old wintworth ( old british) stubby that fit in too

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  • zedfez
    replied
    I just pulled the passenger control arm on my iX and it was a bit of a pain, but with a 22mm combination wrench, it only took me 3hrs total to pull and replace it. I had a shop pop in my new inner ball joint for $10, and was good to go. It was one of the easiest things I have ever done on that car.
    The only trouble I had was keeping the inner stud from spinning. Putting a jack under it didn't work, but the top of the stud was flat on two sides and unthreaded, so I just threw on a pair of vice grips to hold it still.

    Maybe it was just karma from the week long leaky gas tank hell project in which every single bolt snapped when I tried to remove it.

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  • e30s52
    replied
    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1
    I want an angled 22mm gearwrench
    They are great! I have a snap-on one and not a day goes by that I dont use one of them. Best tool I have bought so far.

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    I want an angled 22mm gearwrench

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  • Red88
    replied
    Originally posted by 92 mtechnic cabrio
    you guys think that's bad?

    try threading the pipe between the clutch slave and clutch master...
    FUCK THAT. That took me waaaayy too long.

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  • jlevie
    replied
    The ball joint stud is probably corrosion seized into the sub frame. Liberal application of PBlaster or Kroil and time for them to work (hours to days) followed by a heavy impact will usually release the stud. In extreme cases it may be necessary to drop the subframe and press out the stud.

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  • MIKe30
    replied
    Originally posted by clydesdale
    I just had to tackle this myself. I just don't get why everyone is saying a 22mm wrench. My car requires a 21mm and the replacement control arm nuts use 21mm as well. I too did not have a 21mm crows foot and could not get enough leverage onto my 21 mm wrench. So I used my 22mm (which was clearly too big) o2 sensor removal tool from bavarian auto. It is essentially a crows foot. So, I am not sure why everyone keeps saying a 22 mm when on my 87 it is clearly a 21mm nut. But either way, the crows foot concept worked perfectly on the passenger side. If that failed, I was going to bend a wrench.

    just took mine off with a 22, worked fine. (91 318is)

    after you get the nut off, is there something else holding the stud in? CA doesnt want to come out still.... :?

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  • clydesdale
    replied
    I just had to tackle this myself. I just don't get why everyone is saying a 22mm wrench. My car requires a 21mm and the replacement control arm nuts use 21mm as well. I too did not have a 21mm crows foot and could not get enough leverage onto my 21 mm wrench. So I used my 22mm (which was clearly too big) o2 sensor removal tool from bavarian auto. It is essentially a crows foot. So, I am not sure why everyone keeps saying a 22 mm when on my 87 it is clearly a 21mm nut. But either way, the crows foot concept worked perfectly on the passenger side. If that failed, I was going to bend a wrench.

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  • Schneider325
    replied
    ^that took some time

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  • 92 mtechnic cabrio
    replied
    you guys think that's bad?

    try threading the pipe between the clutch slave and clutch master...

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  • turboeta
    replied
    I used a open end 22mm then a stubby 22mm. It was a real PITA...but not as bad as getting the ball joints out.

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  • Schneider325
    replied
    What worked for me:

    22mm crows foot and Extensions on the drivers side to break loose, then just a regular 22mm wrench from underneath. On the passenger side you need a swivel/U-joint along with the 22mm crows foot and extensions to clear the exhaust. After that a 22mm wrench from underneath got it off just fine.

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  • hoyabmw
    replied
    I just use a stubby 22mm, with a 24mm hooked on it to get leverage to break it loose. Then just use the 22, all from underneath. Replaced the arms 3 times with no problems, other than the extremely limited room to move the wrench, so it takes forever.

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  • Ray McCooney
    replied
    From the top now,

    Extension, extension, extension, flex joint/socket, turn. Enlist the help of a pipe over the ratchet if the preceding does not immediately yield results (if pneumatic power is not available).

    Tylenol for headaches, Midol for cramps.

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  • StereoInstaller1
    replied
    Originally posted by VAPORBLADE
    Dude, you must have some huge arm power. Or some way to brace yourself. With my car being on jack stands (not really high either) going though the engine bay was the only thing that was working. I also had a bent wrench.

    However, it could be the new england salt winters that really make that thing stick!
    I do have huge arm power, I am a stout mofo...but the whole New England salt thing...yeah, I forgot about that.

    New instructions: Hot wrench, remove anything under car attached to subframe.

    Good luck!

    Luke

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