Powerflex Control Arm Bushing Install - Painful!

[NOMAD]

Wow, not as easy as it seemed at first.

I made a few mistakes and probably took longer than I needed to due to a few tools I needed and figuring everything out. Second guessing myself too.

Here's a few tips I discovered, maybe everyone knows this already:
1. A 22mm crowsfoot wrench was indispensable when taking off the passenger side CA balljoint nut on an M42. It's really tight in there with little room between the engine mount and the nut and it's hidden by the exhaust manifold. This was able to sneak in there just enough to get it off and on.

2. To press the first powerflex bushing into the lollipop I just placed them both on the floor jack pad and jacked it up on the frame rail, basically a 1 ton press if you think about it. Popped in easy. Then I stepped on the lollipop and whacked it with a rubber mallet to get the bushing in the rest of the way.

3. All of the offcenter holes go towards the outside of the car. There are no marks for center but you can eyeball it.

4. The inner part of the CA bushing can only go on the CA one way, match up the "P" shaped cut out to the control arm pattern and beat it on with a rubber mallet.

FYI: The Powerflex bushings were marked R and L in the opposite order the Control Arms were marked R and L. They can only go on one way so don't worry about the markings.

5. Make sure you check 3 times that you have the outer bushing facing the right direction before pressing it into the lollipop. It's not the end of the world if you get it wrong but you'll have to cut out and indentation of the proper size on the other side of the bushing (you'll see it if you do it)

6. Beat the bushings on as far as you can get them on, this will help on install.

7. The way I installed the CA was to connect the outer ball joint, then the Lollipop, then the inner balljoint will have to be played with for about an hour. Beat on the CA with a rubber mallet to help jar it into its hole. Maybe someone else has a better idea?

I tried a few different ways to get the CA on but dang was that frustrating and time consuming!

Good luck. it can be done at home without paying someone, but it ain't fun.

[Hellabad]

You know what? I never take the arm off if I am just changing the bushings.

You can easily knock the lollipop off of the arm, and in fact its easier because the car is holding the arm for you so you can use both hands.

Jay

[NOMAD]

Even with the powerflex type? When I had both balljoints snugged there was no way the holes would line up on the lollipops.

I replaced the CA at the same time though so I had to take off everything.

[Hellabad]

Yes, I use a giant screwdriver to flex the lollipop forward enough to slide over the nubbies where the bolts go. It all flexes pretty easy if you have a big enough screwdriver and also make sure you put the bushing on very far forward.


Jay

[Jean]

How do these powerflex control arm (or trailing arm for that matter)bushings fair after about 1 year or so of use? Do they "stretch out" and have more play over time VS. oem rubber?

Jean

[redhatpat]

2. To press the first powerflex bushing into the lollipop I just placed them both on the floor jack pad and jacked it up on the frame rail, basically a 1 ton press if you think about it.

That's a very good idea. I'll have to try that when I install my M3 CABs.

[StereoInstaller1]

NOMAD, did you see the tutorial I made?

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=87295&highlight=DIY

[NOMAD]

Yes, I did. It was helpful.
The original issue I had was (from your writeup) "Just be really careful to NOT scratch the bearing surface of the control arm."
Guess what i did when cutting off the inner bushing sleeve? I got is messed up pretty good so I ended up getting all new arms.

It was a pain to realize that the Powerflex bushings were marked "R" and "L" in the OPPOSITE way that the control arms were... So R went onto L and L onto R. duh

I tried to use the screwdriver method to line up the holes but i suppose I needed the bushings another 1/8" or so on the CA because it was a real pain.

[WhatWentWong]

I posted a thread a long time ago with my powerflex CAB install. Same problems as everyone else, same bitching email to powerflex about the reversed L/R stampings, same 1/8" too tight to get the bolts to line up again to the 2 mounting holes per side. Same trick: giant screw driver. A lot of swearing is also recommended.

To get the old inner bushing off the CA, just use a blow torch and torch it off. Torch it, twist it a whole bunch, torch it, repeat. Just do it outside with a giant shop fan pointing at it so you don't die of rubbery fumes. :(

I've lathered up the interface between the inner and outer bushing on the new powerflexes with the provided lube, but MAKE SURE TO KEEP DRY the interface between the outer bushing and the lollipop. Use more tonnage to get it in if you have to, but don't lube it. You don't want that interface slipping. Someone recommended serrating the inner face of the lolliop with coarse grit sand paper to make sure the CAB does not rotate within it.

6 months of daily driving ownership now, no geometry shift, no slop.

[makaio]

How do these powerflex control arm (or trailing arm for that matter)bushings fair after about 1 year or so of use? Do they "stretch out" and have more play over time VS. oem rubber?

Jean

2 years and 7,000 miles later, mine are still doing fine.

[Sam Cogley]

How do these powerflex control arm (or trailing arm for that matter)bushings fair after about 1 year or so of use? Do they "stretch out" and have more play over time VS. oem rubber?

Jean

Poly wears better than rubber, unless it's really bad poly. I had some control arm bushings that had been in my Talon for about five years. Wrecked the car, bought another Talon, moved the bushings to the new arms. They looked like new, except for a bit of dirt.

[peete]

I just installed some PF bushings in my son's e30 reacently. Third car I've done. I might have been a little inebriated when I installed one of the bushings in the lollipop backwards. But I was able to dig it out and get it right.

They aren't that difficult. Way easier than rubber ones.

Using silicone spray on the control arm really helps getting the inner bushing on. Rubber mallets are useless for this type of work. Your garage should have at least one small and one large dead blow hammer.

As far as durability, my e36 has over 10k miles on them and are doing fine.

It's also a good idea to buy some copper anti seize in case the bushings start to squeak. I had to re apply some to my E34s upper control arms.

Bimmerworld has a deal going on solid metal ball joint control arms and PF bushings for $190.
After I pay Virginia for a speeding ticket they were kind enough to issue me I'm getting a set for my e30.

[Aptyp]

How do these powerflex control arm (or trailing arm for that matter)bushings fair after about 1 year or so of use? Do they "stretch out" and have more play over time VS. oem rubber?

Jean

I am running m3 CABS, but I have urethane rears for a few years now, they still look like the day I put them on (minus dirt and squeaks)

I am still satisfied.

[NOMAD]

So far so good.
I hope i don't have to mess with them for a long time.

Although i must say that i really don't like the geometry of the BMW front end. I like the A arm set up of the Miata and others, just seems to take a set better.

All in all though, I'm happy with the way it feels... nice and tight.