I barely have any braking power :(

[sheefo2k]

When I brake the whole car shakes, it takes for ever to slow down and its pretty bad.

I m about to order the turner motorsport kit
4 tms cross drill rotors
axxis ultamate (had them on the e46 and they were fine)
No SS brake lines.


Whats the difference anyone know between the blue and amber ATE fluid?
Ate super blue or amber?

Now regarding the E-brakke or the lack of one, how do i fix that? do I need to buy anything? any diy will help?I was thinking maybe buy the seals for the rebuild kit but not worth it because they dont seem to leak any fluids.


So any help on the E-brake?and reviews or opinions about the TMS kit?

[FredK]

Just get blank rotors, decent pads, and new rubber lines.

There's no difference except color between the ATE Typ200 and Super Blue.

If your ebrake doesn't work that means the shoes are shot, are way out of adjustment, or they've been removed altogether. Have they ever worked? Because the brake shoes are retained by these spring posts that anchor into the brake dust shield, and have a tendency to rust out, making it impossible to properly mount ebrake shoes ever again.

[sheefo2k]

I would say my ebrake worked but barely any. just barely stopped and that was at the highest seting.

How do i know if the e brake is rebuildable or fixable? how do i know if its really out of alignent?

[sheefo2k]

its funny how I care the most about the ebrake over regular breaks?

[FredK]

Well, you'll have to remove the rear wheels and the rear brake rotors, then you can check the condition of the e-brake shoes.

If there's good pad life left, and the spring pins are in good shape, you can use the barrel adjusters to set the proper distance to the rear disc bell.

[sheefo2k]

I ll try it out on sunday and see what happens.

Take the wheels off and see how much life left on the pads, check the springs and go from there?

[itsbrokeagain]

your brake fluid is prolly disgusting as well...flushing the system out right now could yield some better braking if you need to buy some time before completely swapping the brakes...

[terminale30]

"takes for ever to slow down" might be master cylinder, especially if if the pedal travel is excessive. this was the behavior of my e30 before I replaced the MC.

shakes and shuttered when braking is usually rotors, if the steering wheel shakes a lot, front rotors are warped.

[hottnikkz]

A friend is going through something similar, takes forever to stop. How do you diagnose a bad MC?

[sticksdaman]

loose pedal feel, non responsive braking is usually caused by a bad master cyl.

I upgraded to the 25mm master cyl that IE sells.. its a night and day difference but requires slightly more pressure to stop.

[hottnikkz]

Thanks for the response. Sounds like the MC. How much was that and who is IE? Thanks!

[Massive Lee]

You might also include a set of rebuilt calipers. All around. Or have your car inspected by a tech...

[hottnikkz]

Thanks for the response. Sounds like the MC. How much was that and who is IE? Thanks!

Ireland engineering duh. Got it thanks!

[cbouchez]

my rotors are making a weird noise now. I know they needed to be replaced but now is to the point that if I applied the brakes I hear a ticking noise. I looked at the rotor and half of it seemed to be rusted? So this means that 1/2 is being used the other 1/2 is not...

Bad calipper? Do I need to replace both fronts?


I don't want to replace more than I have to:

$58 - Front Pair of Brembo OE Rotors
$50 - Rear Pair of Brembo OE Rotors
$87 - Hawk HP Plus Front Pad Set
$88 - Hawk HP Plus Rear Pad Set
$12.50 - ATE Super Blue Fluid - Qty 1 (1 liter can)
$11 - UPS Ground shipping
$26.30 - WA Sales Tax (8.9%)
Total = $332.80 shipped

Plus the stainnless steel brake lines...

Can the mechanic tell if the calipper is shot?

Thanks guys!