Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Sheared subframe bolt!!!!!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Sheared subframe bolt!!!!!

    So I put my car in the air today after recent front end work to check and make sure everything was tight! I notice the drivers isde back ksubframe bolt eas loose so I hit it with an impact gun and sheared the bolt!! It broke in the frame with no remaining head to grab onto. This is a huge problem. Has anyone had this happen to them or have any suggestions on a fix!!! Please need your help the repair at a shop will be more them the value of the car

    #2
    I had this exact thing happen to me. The fix is straight forward but sort of a pain and requires some minor welding. It might be impossible with the engine in the car.
    The threaded portion is a t shaped piece of metal that sits in the frame rail channel. Think of a T sitting in a U. It is welded at the bottom where is sits on the bottom of the frame rail and then welded at the top of the two Ts. You basically have to put the top of the frame rail open, cut the top 2 welds, and then drill out the bottom welds. You then have to source a section of intact frame rail that has one of the T shaped inserts still there, cut it out, and then weld it in place. You want to make sure you have everything lined up before you do any welding. We did it like this:

    loosely place new t shaped connector
    insert subframe bolt through the subframe and thread it into the t shaped connector
    weld the top of the T shaped connector the the frame rail
    remove the subframe and weld around the bottom and then grind smooth
    reinstall the subframe and thread the new bolt on
    reweld the top of the frame rail

    actually now that i write it all out its really a pain in the ass. it worked really well, but we did it with no drivetrain installed in the car, and it was on the passenger side.
    you could probably partially weld the subframe to the frame rail, but it would be a pain if you ever had to remove the subframe.
    oh yeah, don't torque ANY bolts on the car with an impact gun except the front crank bolt!
    ______________________
    ex-Chief Operating Officer
    Blunt Tech Industries
    West Coast and Pacific Rim

    Comment


      #3
      Do you mean you just sheared the bolt, or wrecked the weldnut in the framerail? If it's just the bolt, loosen the other three and drop the subframe enough to get some ViseGrips on the bolt shank. Without a head, there will be no torque on it aside from thread friction/rust.
      sigpic

      Mike

      '91 325i track car. Mostly...

      Comment


        #4
        just weld a nut to the end of the bolt and unscrew it
        Originally posted by kronus
        pff, all of you are slow as hell anyway. Eta > all

        Comment


          #5
          Left hand drill bits FTW.

          Closing SOON!
          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

          Comment


            #6
            my car is the same way, I'm gonna try to drill it out with left handed drill bits. I'm not sure I understand the whole T and U thing that Hugh was trying to say. I was thinking I might remove the subframe for the ease and space to drill the sucker out, but am afraid this will happen again with another bolt and then I will be done for.

            BTW I've been driving for months now with 3 subframe bolts holding it on, anything wrong with this?

            Comment


              #7
              I had this happen and all I did was get the appropriate size drill bit and easy out for the bolt size. Put a piece of tubing over the drill bit so just the tip (1/2") of the drill bit is exposed. Then drill a hole into the middle of the broken bolt in the subframe, the rubber tubing will help center the hole in the middle of the bolt. Once you get a good 1/2" deep hole, use your easy out and your ready to put in the new bolt. The fit was pretty tight for my drill but I got the hole right in the middle of the bolt and didnt bung up the threads at all. Good luck.
              sigpic
              1991 325iC w/ 75k Original Miles, Brillantrot, 5-speed, 16" BBS RX's, Black Leather Sport Heated Seats, LSD, and Diving Boards for life!!!:D

              Comment


                #8
                im always afraid of breaking the easy outs and being in a really bad situation.
                90 E30 325i

                Comment


                  #9
                  Bringing this back up. Mine broke today deep inside the frame rail. It was reall hard to take out then putting it back in it broke. I think that there are threads sticking out the top. Can I jus weld something to it and screw it out the top or is it tapered?
                  Originally posted by Nicademus
                  My car beats off to that car. :bow:

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by abepark View Post
                    my car is the same way, I'm gonna try to drill it out with left handed drill bits. I'm not sure I understand the whole T and U thing that Hugh was trying to say. I was thinking I might remove the subframe for the ease and space to drill the sucker out, but am afraid this will happen again with another bolt and then I will be done for.

                    BTW I've been driving for months now with 3 subframe bolts holding it on, anything wrong with this?
                    me too my friend, and i suspect my other subframe bolts will cause issue upon removal as well. ive been thinking about drilling out and retapping the 'T' nuts and inserting some GR8 threaded rod , with nuts to clamp the subframe down. i reeeeeeeally dont wanna have to cut out more of my car and weld stuff in...but i will

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Unless the bolts are rusted into place, they should come out relatively easy with an easy-out and heat. Cutting the frame rail and welding should be a very last case scenario.
                      Byron
                      Leichtbau

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X