Metal brake line down.

[Philo]

I came over to my brothers house today and apparently he lost brake pressure today. I did some looking around and there is a leak from a line.

The leak is on the metal line that runs from the front to the back, right where it bends after coming down from the master cylinder.

Apparently I have to replace the pipe. I know it comes in a straight piece that i have to bend myself. This is no problem.

I am just wondering if there are any surprises i'm in for while replacing the line. I have never done this before.

Cheers
-tim

[E30SPDFRK]

When you disconnect the third clip from the front, a clown doll pops out of the floor and insults you.


Besides for that though, nothing much. If the rest of the line isn't too bad, you could always splice in a new piece where the old one is broken.

[Philo]

How do you connect the two lines for splicing it? That could work for the place it's at.

[E30SPDFRK]

They make fittings that join 2 lines together, most auto parts stores should have them. I believe you will need a flair tool as well.

It really isn't the best way to do it though. The only reason I suggested it is because the line you have to replace will be a pain in the ass to do because of its length.

[Philo]

Ok. Thanks for the late night help. I'm going to just replace the whole line tomorrow. I know it's gonna suck. Who knows I might do a write up on it.

[Knockenwelle]

As Speed Freak said, plan on having a flaring tool handy. You will need the Euro/metric bubble-flare type. 11mm fitting wrench on the lines, and often 14mm on the bigger part. Really, make SURE you have good fitting wrenches before starting project. Also, barring a fairly spectacular rock impact or physical smash/rub (lift) damage, the only reason the hard-line should be leaking is if rusted out from the inside. If that's the case, you need to determine why. If it can be categorized as complete neglect of the brake system hydraulics, plan on dealing with other parts in the hydraulic system with similarly oxidized impediments to longevity. And have some penetrating oil handy. Use with glee.

[Philo]

So what would be the best option, Drive across town to the BMW dealership and get the pipe, or go to the local parts store and flare & cut the pipe myself?

[zedfez]

If you can find one, it is definitely worth getting a bubble flare tool, pipe bender, and pipe cutter. Try and get one of the really small pipe cutters, that way you can use it to cut out the bad sections of a line without having to remove the line from the car. The brake lines are a lot cheaper if you don't get them from the dealer and the tools will be useful on any car that needs brake work.

If you do decide to just splice in a new end on the brake line, make sure to use a flared fitting to connect the new line to the old line. It is a little more work that using a compression fitting, but compression fittings are not rated to handle the pressure inside the brake system. If the line did rot out from the inside, check the brake fluid to make sure it isn't cloudy. If it is, that could mean there is water in the fluid (thus causing the rust) and you should flush the whole system with new fluid.

[MDryVur]

can you jb weld it.. lol






jk

[Philo]

Ok I got it done friday night. It wasn't too bad of a job. After looking around awhile, I found that his rear T valve, on the brake lines, was completely covered in rust. He doesn't have the money to fix it properly, so I just cut it off half way and replaced the broken section. I used a high pressure union (not a brass one) where I cut the pipe and attached the other end to the original fitting. Overall, not too hard of an operation.

Thanks for the help
-tim