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E30 5 lug swap brakes not bleeding properly

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  • tomstin
    replied
    Glad you got it figured out!

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  • Maxdtran
    replied
    Ok update. Swapped out the stock mc to an e32 mc. Pressure bled the brake system and let me tell you. The e32 mc will save your life if your upgrading all these calipers. The stock mc is just too small and I luckily found a brand new one on eBay for $50. It lined up perfectly with the reservoir tank is a simple swap from my e30. Brakes are super now. Onto the next thing. Ac this car for daily driving and then prob turbo her by the winter if time permits, thanks all for the advice..

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    e32

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  • Maxdtran
    replied
    Which model carry’s the 25mm mc?

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    but do they lock up?
    i'm just saying because the stock MC and m3 brakes will make the car feel like shit nomatter what.
    very spongy then at the very bottom it'll want to lock up. you need at 25mm MC

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  • Maxdtran
    replied
    They all flow out through the bleeder. It gets hard and pressured after bleeding. But once the engine comes on. The pedal gets spongy. Brake still works, but not at 100%, I still have to pump a couple of times for it to be effective. Enough to drive but the performance is not there. This car is very fast. M50 non vanos. E36 m3 front calipers. Rear e36 calipers with 318ti brackets. Front brake lines are e36 m3. Rear are stainless steel braided lines. Rear calipers are swapped for fitment. So the caliper bleeders are pointes down. Fronts are pointed up. If I’m doing something wrong. Please let me know.

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    You clearly need to go through, open up brake line unions and figure out where there is new fluid, and where there is old. Sometimes you can have a blockage.

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    so it won't even lock the brakes up?

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  • Maxdtran
    replied
    Sorry for not posting an update sooner since the Coronavirus pandemic has hit Houston TX here where I live pretty hard. But no I haven’t been successful with the bleeding of the brake system and have tried every single method from a two man job, vacuum bleeder, jumped the abs, and a pressure bleeder (15lbs-25lbs).... I’m about to give up and send her to the shop..... thanks guys for all the advice...

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    for future ppl.
    this is how you have to bench bleed.
    if you do it fast you will get the big bubbles and call it a day
    but you have to, very slow, pump it.
    you will see micro tiny bubbles still coming out that stick to the walls it takes some time but
    they will all come out and it'll be completely bled.

    Mc bleeding by jet jones, on Flickr

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  • tomstin
    replied
    Did you get this figured out?

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  • Maxdtran
    replied
    Thank you all. I have bench bled the Mc. Picked up a pressure bleeder. And will try it again this Sunday with the abs line 2 and 11 jumped. Ill give out an update post soon as I find out if all goes out.

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    With a new MC you need to bench bleed it very slowly and watch all the bubbles come out because there is allot with a brand new brake master.
    Also are you using the 25mm because the stock MC is too small and feel very spongy then BAM it will want to lock up.

    other then those two key things assuming the calipers are on the correct side it should bleed good.
    maybe tap them will a small hammer while bleeding because tiny air pockets do like to stick in there.

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  • tomstin
    replied
    Two things. Have you tried to bleed the pump with the bleeder on the pump itself? Another post mentioned after you bleed the brakes go out and find some soft surfaces and force the ABS pump to activate.

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  • tomstin
    replied
    Two things. Have you tried to bleed the pump with the bleeder on the pump itself? Another post mentioned after you bleed the brakes go out and find some soft surfaces and force the ABS pump to activate.

    Leave a comment:

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