Adjustable Subframe Advice

[jwest11]

I am going to be lowering my E30 soon and will likely buy BC Racing coilovers unless anyone has a better recommendation for a brand equally as good or better for the same price. I'm not looking to go insanely low either, Im more of a fan of "meaty" fitment than low stance especially right now with needing the car to retain some practicality..

I have 16 inch style 5's with 18mm adapters and am looking to run a 205/45/16 or 215/45/16 tire. I have heard since I wouldn't be going crazy low, subframe riser bushings would be sufficient to help the geometry, is this true? Is it worth it or necessary to buy the hardware from Garagistic and have it welded on? Also if i did buy the hardware, what is the main advantages/disadvantages of going with eccentric or serrated? Should I get riser bushings and the adjustable hardware?

I already have a set of subframe bushings from revshift (non riser) not yet installled and one side looks thicker that the other, would having that side on the bottom raise it enough?

The car would be driven daily once finished so I want to keep unnecessary tire wear to minimum/

Thank you for any help.

[DiamondschwarzE30]

I just installed the serrated adjustable kit from Garagistic. I also am running a meaty 17" wheel with a 225 tire setup so the car does not sit crazy low. For me, it is very nice having the adjustability back there and I dont think the subframe riser kit is needed. Sure, if you can use the riser kit and it may help reduce excessive camber, but you will lack the adjustability if your alignment isnt perfect.

Also, the serrated kit locks in the adjustment very well, but I have been having issues with the trailing arm bolts backing out. I ended up applying locktite to the threads and tightening a thin M12 nut (also locktite) on the exposed threads. So far, that seems to be working. The serrated kit also give you a greater range of adjustability over the eccentric kit, but both kits weld on to the subframe the same.

[jwest11]

I just installed the serrated adjustable kit from Garagistic. I also am running a meaty 17" wheel with a 225 tire setup so the car does not sit crazy low. For me, it is very nice having the adjustability back there and I dont think the subframe riser kit is needed. Sure, if you can use the riser kit and it may help reduce excessive camber, but you will lack the adjustability if your alignment isnt perfect.

Also, the serrated kit locks in the adjustment very well, but I have been having issues with the trailing arm bolts backing out. I ended up applying locktite to the threads and tightening a thin M12 nut (also locktite) on the exposed threads. So far, that seems to be working. The serrated kit also give you a greater range of adjustability over the eccentric kit, but both kits weld on to the subframe the same.

Thanks for the advice. I'll take what you said into consideration!

[Zambuzan]

I went through a similar thought process when choosing my suspension. Ultimately, I went with Ireland Engineering springs (comparable to H&R Race springs) and Bilstein B8 shocks, which overall gave the car a nice drop and retained a nice-ish ride quality. I run 17s so ride quality is rougher than 16s.

I believe BC's e30 kits are linear springs and set to 8k front and rear, which IMO is awfully stiff and will heavily compromise ride quality. If you're dead set on coilovers, I would contact Ground Control (they have a great reputation on products for these cars).

In terms of rear subframe adjustability, I spoke with Garagistic and concluded that I wouldn't need any of their kits in order to maintain good suspension geometry, and a post-install alignment confirmed this. I have -2 camber all around and acceptable rear toe-in.

So, if your car is just a DD, I'd get the springs/shocks I mentioned and I'd skip the rear subframe adjustments for practicality and less headaches.

Here's my POS for reference:

[jwest11]

I went through a similar thought process when choosing my suspension. Ultimately, I went with Ireland Engineering springs (comparable to H&R Race springs) and Bilstein B8 shocks, which overall gave the car a nice drop and retained a nice-ish ride quality. I run 17s so ride quality is rougher than 16s.

I believe BC's e30 kits are linear springs and set to 8k front and rear, which IMO is awfully stiff and will heavily compromise ride quality. If you're dead set on coilovers, I would contact Ground Control (they have a great reputation on products for these cars).

In terms of rear subframe adjustability, I spoke with Garagistic and concluded that I wouldn't need any of their kits in order to maintain good suspension geometry, and a post-install alignment confirmed this. I have -2 camber all around and acceptable rear toe-in.

So, if your car is just a DD, I'd get the springs/shocks I mentioned and I'd skip the rear subframe adjustments for practicality and less headaches.

Here's my POS for reference:

Thats exactly what I was hoping to hear as far as the adjustability goes. Did you retain the stock subframe bushings then or go with the risers? I think you can order BC with custom spring rates. Do you have recommendations on what to go with? I have thought about going with GC but its essentially just Bilstein and H&R's with adjustable collars right and they don't have the adjustable top hats unless you get the complete kit which is around 2k.

[DiamondschwarzE30]

I went through a similar thought process when choosing my suspension. Ultimately, I went with Ireland Engineering springs (comparable to H&R Race springs) and Bilstein B8 shocks, which overall gave the car a nice drop and retained a nice-ish ride quality. I run 17s so ride quality is rougher than 16s.

I believe BC's e30 kits are linear springs and set to 8k front and rear, which IMO is awfully stiff and will heavily compromise ride quality. If you're dead set on coilovers, I would contact Ground Control (they have a great reputation on products for these cars).

In terms of rear subframe adjustability, I spoke with Garagistic and concluded that I wouldn't need any of their kits in order to maintain good suspension geometry, and a post-install alignment confirmed this. I have -2 camber all around and acceptable rear toe-in.

So, if your car is just a DD, I'd get the springs/shocks I mentioned and I'd skip the rear subframe adjustments for practicality and less headaches.

Here's my POS for reference:

+1 on the Ground Control coilovers. I'm running their kit with a 440 in/lb front, 660 in/lb rear and it rides perfect for street/track.

[Zambuzan]

Did you retain the stock subframe bushings then or go with the risers? I think you can order BC with custom spring rates. Do you have recommendations on what to go with?

I didn’t go with riser bushings. I didn’t need them because I’m not extremely low. I just went with regular-style Garagistic 80a poly bushings.

Look at the comment above for spring rates.

Good luck!

[AmosCake]

I just installed the serrated adjustable kit from Garagistic. I also am running a meaty 17" wheel with a 225 tire setup so the car does not sit crazy low. For me, it is very nice having the adjustability back there and I dont think the subframe riser kit is needed. Sure, if you can use the riser kit and it may help reduce excessive camber, but you will lack the adjustability if your alignment isnt perfect.

Also, the serrated kit locks in the adjustment very well, but I have been having issues with the trailing arm bolts backing out. I ended up applying locktite to the threads and tightening a thin M12 nut (also locktite) on the exposed threads. So far, that seems to be working. The serrated kit also give you a greater range of adjustability over the eccentric kit, but both kits weld on to the subframe the same.

What are the purpose of these included brackets?

[jbontke]

It looks like they increase the height allowing for more range in adjustability.