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    Ground Contol Camber plates question

    Got a question about GC camber plates adjustments. It seems that the range of camber change is limited by the camber bolts (the 4 allen key bolts) on top of the plate hitting the opening in the strut tower. What's the deal with that? I noticed that there's an extra hole between the two bolts, but you can't actually relocate the bolt there because the washers don't fit - too close together. Is there a workaround or I am stuck with that range?

    Thanks!


    #2
    Some people run 2 of the bolts. I did for a bit without any problems. You can always grind down the washers though.
    James Peacock

    WWFSMD?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by m42technic
      Some people run 2 of the bolts. I did for a bit without any problems. You can always grind down the washers though.
      people @ ground control thought i was a fruit cake when i asked them if running w/ 2 bolts was okay (since my used setup only had 2 bolts in it).

      as much as i think they are a bunch of arrogant assholes w/ huge ego's, i'd stick w/ their advice and not run 2 bolts per side. cut the washers...

      Comment


        #4
        if you want to be "fuh raze", cut the strut towers.
        Seriously, its the best solution. No cutting washers, running 2 bolts, etc.
        Just notch the towers themselves.

        NASA MidSouth TT Director / GTS2 #018
        Mods: Coastal PS Fluid, 10w40 Oil
        Future Mods: Bosch Micro-Edge Wiper Blades, Painter's Tape, Spark Plugs, Freezer for Nutty Buddys, Adam Nitti CD's

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Skafrog
          if you want to be "fuh raze", cut the strut towers.
          Seriously, its the best solution. No cutting washers, running 2 bolts, etc.
          Just notch the towers themselves.
          Cutting the towers will make it ellegal in some classes.
          If you plan to Race !
          Just run 2 bolts, Iv'e only run 2 bolts since new, and I
          have had no probs. Bolts only hold your setting .
          There a great make, but the dumb fuck that designed them
          was too stupid to test them on a real car . IMO.
          Looked great on the comp screen, suck in the real world .

          Comment


            #6
            I would have to disagree on that one.
            They were designed as a high performance part, and since BMW Prepared and Modifed classes allow the cutting of the towers, its not a big deal as far as CCA racing is concerned.

            NASA MidSouth TT Director / GTS2 #018
            Mods: Coastal PS Fluid, 10w40 Oil
            Future Mods: Bosch Micro-Edge Wiper Blades, Painter's Tape, Spark Plugs, Freezer for Nutty Buddys, Adam Nitti CD's

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Skafrog
              I would have to disagree on that one.
              They were designed as a high performance part, and since BMW Prepared and Modifed classes allow the cutting of the towers, its not a big deal as far as CCA racing is concerned.
              Hey I don't give a shit one way or the other, I was told modifying the strut
              towers was not allowed in"stock class", Maybe I should of bin more clear.
              Maybe I'm misinformed ?
              Besides resale value , who would want a car with the strut towers butcherd.
              If its just a track rat who cares ! cut away !

              Comment


                #8
                my towers are notched, camber is set @ -2 degrees, filled in the ground out metal with weld, ground it off smooth and no one will ever notice the difference. they do it on new cars so i didn't see why it would be a problem on mine.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Instead of all the cutting and/or only running two bolts, why don't you just make two "combo" washers. Take a couple strips of steel the same thickness and width (diameter) of the washer(s) and drill two holes in them with the same spacing as the two holes you want to use. Round the ends on a bench grinder and you'll have two enlongated two-hole washers that will allow you to use the holes that are closer together and retain all four bolts. Just a thought...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Is there room to maybe switch to a different fastener and avoid the clearance problem with the strut tower?
                    Say use a large washer in combination with a flathead screw?

                    Also, if you were going to try and pick up that middle hole and wanted to go the grinded side washer route... They do make washers that already have a flat side. You would probably need 4, it looks like a pretty tight squeeze. Go to www.mcmaster.com and search for "D Washer"
                    -Brandon
                    '86 325es S50
                    '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
                    '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
                    '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

                    For sale:
                    S50 TMS chip for Schricks

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by EverWiser
                      Instead of all the cutting and/or only running two bolts, why don't you just make two "combo" washers. Take a couple strips of steel the same thickness and width (diameter) of the washer(s) and drill two holes in them with the same spacing as the two holes you want to use. Round the ends on a bench grinder and you'll have two enlongated two-hole washers that will allow you to use the holes that are closer together and retain all four bolts. Just a thought...
                      cutting washers is just as easy or easier then making a washer combo peice (though it would be a cleaner way to do it... i was going to do this, but was too lazy).

                      in any case.. even so, u will not get full adjustment of the camber plates. only way to maximize adjustment is to cut the tower tops.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        get IE plates

                        I like them better. They have needle thrust bearings so they don't ever make that loud CRACK noise when you turn the wheel. I have seen/heard of several GC camber plate equipped cars that have done this. Please don't respond with "mine doesn't make noise so it's not a problem" type responses

                        They're also cheaper than GCs plates, and they can be adjusted fully negative without cutting/grinding ANYTHING. Not to mention that they are top installable/removable, which is a PITA with the GCs, you have to have a hand inside and outside the wheel well when installing and removing them.

                        IE plates don't have the capability to adjust caster, but I'm willing to bet that 99% of people on this board do not need caster adjustability, new suspension pieces should keep both sides within a close range of each other. Not to mention more caster can be had with offset CABs, with the benefit of a slightly larger wheel base and slightly better weight distribution. From a numerical standpoint, you are not likely to notice the slight changes.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks for the good description between the two, Bryson. I've been looking at getting either the GC or IE plates and you're the first I've heard that has had experience with both. I will most definitely be getting the IE ones when I redo my front suspension this spring.
                          -Brandon
                          '86 325es S50
                          '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
                          '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
                          '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

                          For sale:
                          S50 TMS chip for Schricks

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Bryson
                            get IE plates

                            I like them better. They have needle thrust bearings so they don't ever make that loud CRACK noise when you turn the wheel. I have seen/heard of several GC camber plate equipped cars that have done this. Please don't respond with "mine doesn't make noise so it's not a problem" type responses

                            They're also cheaper than GCs plates, and they can be adjusted fully negative without cutting/grinding ANYTHING. Not to mention that they are top installable/removable, which is a PITA with the GCs, you have to have a hand inside and outside the wheel well when installing and removing them.

                            IE plates don't have the capability to adjust caster, but I'm willing to bet that 99% of people on this board do not need caster adjustability, new suspension pieces should keep both sides within a close range of each other. Not to mention more caster can be had with offset CABs, with the benefit of a slightly larger wheel base and slightly better weight distribution. From a numerical standpoint, you are not likely to notice the slight changes.
                            Have you compared the stack height of them?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              stack height is almost identical, they're both made using the same concepts so that's to be expected

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