Loose, uncentered steering

[lolcantturn]

I'm addressing the front suspension of my E30 now that the rear feels the way I want it to feel, and since I'm going to be doing CAB's and changing out the struts I might as well address my steering issue. I have no power steering. On the highway my steering is pretty sharp, but on the streets it feels loose, with a fair bit of play. On top of that, while my wheels are straight, my steering wheel is about 10* counterclockwise from the center.
Any suggestions?

[xwill112x]

alignment issues.

[lolcantturn]

alignment issues.

Toe adjustment perhaps? I could see how that could account for the uncentered steering wheel, but also the play in the steering?
On an unrelated issue, is upgrading to an IE poly steering coupler worth it?

[xwill112x]

if your oem one isnt trashed why do it..but that may be where your free play is comming from. check it.

[xwill112x]

And check your tires, a toe issue will be obvious on the tires.

[ill4noreason]

my steering had tons of play 2 inches when I first bought my car changed the ball joints and control arm bushings felt tight after. It's easy to adjust steering wheel. but if your doing new front suspension just get an alignment it's included.

[jlevie]

Check the tie rods and control arm ball joints for wear. It takes very wear in those parts to result in "loose" steering.

[lolcantturn]

if your oem one isnt trashed why do it..but that may be where your free play is comming from. check it.

And check your tires, a toe issue will be obvious on the tires.

my steering had tons of play 2 inches when I first bought my car changed the ball joints and control arm bushings felt tight after. It's easy to adjust steering wheel. but if your doing new front suspension just get an alignment it's included.

Check the tie rods and control arm ball joints for wear. It takes very wear in those parts to result in "loose" steering.

Thanks guys. I guess I will be ordering new CABs, steering coupler, and ball joints! And of course an alignment right after

[lolcantturn]

Upon searching, it seems that removing the ball joints and putting in new ones are a PITA. Is this true? What will I need?

[jlevie]

The right solution is to replace the control arms. But before ordering parts it would be smart to inspect the car to see what needs to be replaced. While wear in the steering coupler (or rack) is possible, that is rarely seen.

Get the front of the car up in the air. Then grab the wheel and see if there is movement along the vertical axis. Movement there can be worn control arm ball joints, worn bearings, or bad upper strut bearings. Then see if there is motion along the horizontal axis. Motion there will be tie rods. Dismount the brake calipers and spin the each wheel. Noise or rougness indicates worn wheel bearings.

If the above quick tests don't produce obvious results, get under the car and use a pry bar to look for motion in the control arm ball joints. Use a large, as in 24", pair of channel-locks to squeeze each ball joint. Any motion what so ever in a ball joint is cause for replacement.

You can check the steering coupler by watching the the splined shaft of the steering rack while someone moves the steering wheel. If the wheel moves and the coupler doesn't, replace same.

If the outer ball joint of a tie rod is bad, replace the entire tie rod and boot. Except in a case where a tie rod or control arm is bent, when I have to replace a tie rod or control arm I do both sides at the same time.

When you replace the struts, replace the upper strut bearings also.

[lolcantturn]

The right solution is to replace the control arms. But before ordering parts it would be smart to inspect the car to see what needs to be replaced. While wear in the steering coupler (or rack) is possible, that is rarely seen.

Get the front of the car up in the air. Then grab the wheel and see if there is movement along the vertical axis. Movement there can be worn control arm ball joints, worn bearings, or bad upper strut bearings. Then see if there is motion along the horizontal axis. Motion there will be tie rods. Dismount the brake calipers and spin the each wheel. Noise or rougness indicates worn wheel bearings.

If the above quick tests don't produce obvious results, get under the car and use a pry bar to look for motion in the control arm ball joints. Use a large, as in 24", pair of channel-locks to squeeze each ball joint. Any motion what so ever in a ball joint is cause for replacement.

You can check the steering coupler by watching the the splined shaft of the steering rack while someone moves the steering wheel. If the wheel moves and the coupler doesn't, replace same.

If the outer ball joint of a tie rod is bad, replace the entire tie rod and boot. Except in a case where a tie rod or control arm is bent, when I have to replace a tie rod or control arm I do both sides at the same time.

When you replace the struts, replace the upper strut bearings also.

Much appreciated, thanks. I just figured that if I'm going to be having the majority of the front suspension out I might as well address everything I can, and with what you told me, I will, thanks!