Getting car track-ready

[freeride53]

I've been studying this sub-forum quite a lot lately, as I'm planning on getting my car to the track a lot this summer. I'm really out to get the car's suspension tight, and stiff - but all on a budget.
So far, I've lowered my car on Eibach pro-kit springs, and e90 drop hats.
However, my car still has a lot of body-roll, and my front struts are blown.
I've made this list so far, of things to do to get my car's suspension nice and tight, but I really would like some tips. My car is a daily driver, that I'd still like to use this summer.
My short list:
-New Struts (bilstein sports or kyb's?)
-Strut Brace
-Polyurethane bushings
-adjustable camber plates
-wider wheels
-anti-sway bars.

[ak-]

Use money for strut brace on H&R Race springs.
DD and track friendly.

[freeride53]

I'm pretty happy with the springs I have atm.
Are you saying that the strut braces don't work?

[XvillainousX]

If you're doing HPDE 1 for the first time you dont have to have all that stuff.. Its very mild.. Its to familiarize yourself with the track and yourself driving on track.
As you do more events its a good idea to start upgrading at that point.
dont forget koni adjustables should be an option.
Strut brace is ok and I think should be last on your list..
poly bushings are a great idea. I've seen someone track on old factory bushings and the clutch fan hit the radiator. It also cut the top radiator hose. So tie strapping the upper radiator hose away front the clutch fan is a good idea. Get a set of tires, brake pads, and brake lines. As for sway bars, you only need your front.

[ak-]

I'm pretty happy with the springs I have atm.
Are you saying that the strut braces don't work?

Well.. what kind of "happy" are you happy with? Stance or function?
The springs you have on there are reported to be close to stock rate(102f/277r).
And my guess is, your blown front struts can be playing tricks with you thinking your springs are stiff when actually you're bottoming out.

Strut brace should be last on the list like said above, but there are people who can vouch for them "doing" something, and people who won't.

When I installed my front one, I felt a cool difference in sturdiness on turn-ins, but this was before I had coils..
When I installed my rear one, I felt nothing(as assumed). The only difference was my rear windshield didn't feel like it was going to explode/shatter from the chassis bending when entering driveways at an angle anymore.

But like everyone is going to tell you, get seat time first to familiarize yourself!

[XvillainousX]

Well.. what kind of "happy" are you happy with? Stance or function?
The springs you have on there are reported to be close to stock rate(102f/277r).
And my guess is, your blown front struts can be playing tricks with you thinking your springs are stiff when actually you're bottoming out.

Strut brace should be last on the list like said above, but there are people who can vouch for them "doing" something, and people who won't.

When I installed my front one, I felt a cool difference in sturdiness on turn-ins, but this was before I had coils..
When I installed my rear one, I felt nothing(as assumed). The only difference was my rear windshield didn't feel like it was going to explode/shatter from the chassis bending when entering driveways at an angle anymore.

But like everyone is going to tell you, get seat time first to familiarize yourself!

What you said is correct.. Familiarize yourself with the track and your driving. No amount of money can account for seat time. As your speed increases, your driving gremlins appear. I think if he has to spend money safety comes first before performance. Far too often I see and hear drivers make excusing for the car's behavior. Just look at SpecE30. They barely have good suspension but look how fast they drive it. As your seat time increases your knowledge of the cars behavior will follow. By trial and error you learn what parts will suit your driving style and what dont. There is no rush to drive fast... Driving home is more important.

General rule of thumb... The wider the tires you run, less camber you should run. But then you compare RA1s to R888 with the same dimensions which happen to be by the same manufacturer. RA1s can run with more camber but the r888 you run less do to the sidewalls folding over.

[Ian Bowers]

The only difference was my rear windshield didn't feel like it was going to explode/shatter from the chassis bending when entering driveways at an angle anymore.

omg, so buying one now. That shit freaks me out.

[ak-]

What you said is correct.. Familiarize yourself with the track and your driving. No amount of money can account for seat time. As your speed increases, your driving gremlins appear. I think if he has to spend money safety comes first before performance. Far too often I see and hear drivers make excusing for the car's behavior. Just look at SpecE30. They barely have good suspension but look how fast they drive it. As your seat time increases your knowledge of the cars behavior will follow. By trial and error you learn what parts will suit your driving style and what dont. There is no rush to drive fast... Driving home is more important.

Well said!

omg, so buying one now. That shit freaks me out.

LOL.

[jlevie]

If you want to make the car track friendly at low cost, Ditch the Eibach springs and drop hats. Install a fresh set of Bilstien Sport shocks, H&R Race springs, and a 22/19mm sway bar kit (I like the IE kit). Camber plates (the GC Spec E30 plates) are optional until you graduate to race tires. Poly bushings are also optional. The OE bushings are fine if fresh (especially the subframe and trailing arm bushings). Though I would recommend offset control arm bushings. A front strut brace is okay, but not essential. Your money will be better spent on track brake pads or seat time. Wider wheels/tires are nice, but again seat time is more important to begin with. When you have the skills and are ready to move up to race rubber would be the time for wider wheels. A 15x7 wheel with 205-50 or 225-45 NT-01 or RA1 tires works well.

For track duty PFC 06 pads are a good choice. Being a race pad they will hold up on track yet can still be used on the street. I find them to be quieter than Hawk HP+ pads, have way more performance, and last pretty well.

The Eibach springs aren't any stiffer than stock springs. They are just shorter. H&R race springs are about as stiff as you'd probably want to go on a dual duty car. The combination I cited is the Spec E30 suspension. It isn't the best (stiffer springs would be better), but it is very capable and is a well balanced package

[freeride53]

Thanks guys. So...
I've gathered that I'll be starting off with:
-New struts (hell, they're blown anyway)
-Front Sway bar
-New CABs
-sway bar end links
-skid plate

I've autocrossed before, and I spend a lot of time on the twisties, when I'm headin over the 'hill.
The bodyroll and somewhat "unconnetedness" just bother me, and I thought they'd be worse on the track.

So, would you guys go H&R over IE?

[KenC]

Swaybar bushings.

Ditch those shitty Eibachs asap. Get some H&R Race if you're going to track it.