New front ...almost

[wakers3]

Alright - so close to being finished with my front suspension rebuild. Nothing fancy due to cost issues, but at least got all new control arms + rubber all around + strut cartridges. A couple of things that have held me up:

Main control arm joint that attached the new control arm to the subframe on one side is spinning and is a big PITA to just get to that nut. have never used a pickle fork before, but that seems to be the prescribed method for these kinds of things.

Strut shafts are spinning and I am afraid I am not getting enough torque on the shaft bolt.

Finally, tie rod end bolt on one side got stripped somehow. I have new ends, but getting the end to break free is a monster for some reason.

Any suggestions or tricks/tips that you all might pass along would be greatly appreciated.

-Bill

[Brandon12V]

can't help you on the strut as I've never done it on these vehicles but ive done other cars in the same fashion with success. if you have an impact gun, thread on by hand. Then, GENTLY impact it down til it grabs. Use a set of vice grips with little rubber bushings/spacers between the teeth to grab the strut rod through the spring. Tighten by hand the rest of the way. You can get the rubber at any hardware store or home improvement lot for $.25-$1.00 each. do this carefully as putting nicks in the can cause leaks.

as for the tie rod, I'm suprise you manage to crossthread the bolt as usually the nut will strip instead. Use the pickle fork and a sledge. Hammer the fuck out of it. If you dont have enough room, use a thinwall 12 point 30mm socket & take the hub off so you can remove the dust shield to get more clearance for te pickle fork. Be cautious not to damage you wheel bearing when removing the hub. this would also be a good time to repack your bearing with new grease.


On the inner balljoint, attatch the control arm lollipop/Bushing prior to tightening the nuts. It will probably misalign a bit and you have to use a rubber mallet to sleeve it back through the subframe hole. Once you get to that point, the pressure of the contol arm bushing will hold it in place enough to tighten the ball joint from spinning. Make sure you are using locking nuts on the joints and outer rods.

Hope this helps.

-Brandon

[drumad]

Main control arm joint that attached the new control arm to the subframe on one side is spinning and is a big PITA to just get to that nut. have never used a pickle fork before, but that seems to be the prescribed method for these kinds of things.

So the joint stops spinning, put your floor jack under the ball joint and jack it up a bit to apply pressure. You should be able to break that 22mm nut off. It's a pita with the m42 exhaust manifold if that's your engine. I got lucky with my 22mm wrench however. A shorty wouldve been perfect.

Strut shafts are spinning and I am afraid I am not getting enough torque on the shaft bolt.

I honestly just zapped it a few times with an impact and it's been fine since. Did this to two of my cars.

[Fusion]

What do you guys recommend for removing the CABs off the arm and then the CAB from the lollipop without special tools?

[drumad]

define special tool

[Fusion]

Special tool - 3legged joint remover, or something BMW would use
Non special tool - hammer, wooden plank, crow bar, a can of whoop ass