new LCA's, M3 offset bushings, suspension installed. HORRIBLE results

[Mr. Burns]

went ahead and tore out my oem suspension and replaced everything including my lower control arms, (as I f'k my BJ's when taking out suspension), m3 offset bushings.

car had sat for a good 4 weeks in my home garage, it's been humid lately.

fast forward to yesterday and i'm getting everything reinstalled and it looks like my passenger side caliper is seized.

put it all back together and my brake pedal sinks to the floor, AND I have a audible clunk from the front end.

not impressed.

took car back in and I have noticeable grease comming out of my tie rod boot attached at the rack, PLUS no brakes.

WTF did I do?

car had absolutely no issues prior to this.

I was a little rough when removing my struts assembly, might of damaged the rack seals?

thoughts on

clunk- (check top strut mount nut, everything is tight)
brake- (no leaks anywhere, sudden loss of pressure bad MC+seized caliper? SUDDENLY?)
steering rack leakage?-(fixeable with just seals or time for new rack?)

thanks

oh and hai.
1st real post.

[jlevie]

I assume that you didn't disconnect either of the front calipers when doing this work.

The brake pedal sinking to the flow is either a leak in the brake system or a bad master cylinder.

A clunk from the front end of the car could be improper assembly of the struts (see http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&hg=31&fg=10 for the assembly) or it could be from the sways.

The rack was probably leaking before and your work opened a crack in the boot and made the leak obvious.

[Mr. Burns]

I assume that you didn't disconnect either of the front calipers when doing this work.

The brake pedal sinking to the flow is either a leak in the brake system or a bad master cylinder.

A clunk from the front end of the car could be improper assembly of the struts (see http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...11&hg=31&fg=10 for the assembly) or it could be from the sways.

The rack was probably leaking before and your work opened a crack in the boot and made the leak obvious.

I had removed the calipers in order to remove my rotors, however the calipers had been sitting with no stress to the brake line closeby.

there is no brake fluid or any leaks whatsoever...I don't understand how suddenly I get a seized caliper, and a bunk mastercylinder in one shot?

also, makes sense re: the steering rack...good point.

[jlevie]

The youngest E30 is 20 years old now. The plastic and rubber parts have don't last forever and by now they all need replacing. Since they are critical, the first thing I do to an E30 is:

Timing belt
Water pump
Radiator, expansion tank, cap and all cooling system hoses
All suspension busings, including the upper strut/shock mounts (and usually shocks)
Motor, transmission, and differential mounts
Guibo
Caliper rebuilds (or replacement), master cylinder, soft lines, reservoir, and booster if it has any fluid in it
All intake hoses
All fuel hoses


Most of the time the CV joint boots are cracked and need to be replaced and the power steering hoses and oil cooler hoses have cracks and need to be replaced. In many cases the transmission seals and oil filter adapter seals need to also be replaced.

The failure of the caliper and master cylinder were coincidental. Better that it happened now than when you were driving the car.

[Philo]

I'm going to bet that you didn't bleed the brakes when you reinstalled the calipers.

[Mr. Burns]

I'm going to bet that you didn't bleed the brakes when you reinstalled the calipers.

...no I didn't...?

I didn't see the point of having to bleed them since all I did was remove them...there was no disconnectivity of hydrolic lines

will bleeding my brakes now perhaps remedy my mastercylinder/caliper issue?

[einstein57]

I say rebuild the caliper. Its what, $12 for the kit?

[nrubenstein]

What's entirely possible is that when you compressed the calipers to remove them, you damaged the seals. And when you pumped the master cylinder after putting the brakes back on, that can kill it too. These things build up a certain amount of crud if not treated properly and then running them outside the normal range means sudden death.

Or it could be something else. ;)

[Jaxx_]

when does the clunk happen? and I'm not sure it was made clear unless I missed it: Did you actually replace the struts? at least visual inspection on all ball joints?

[Mr. Burns]

yes, struts replaces with Koni's and Apex springs used.

visual inspection, double checked everything.

I have a feeling it might be my right outter tierod, the BJ seemed a little wonky when putting it back together.

either way, headed to my mechs for full diag.

will update.

[Mr. Burns]

bled brakes, presure returned all is good brake wise now.

the 'clunk' is acutally a snapped bolt that must of happened after the car was put back down.

now I have a bolt that stuck IN the car that will need to be drilled out.

FFS.

this is going to get expensive.:curse:

[Jaxx_]

bled brakes, presure returned all is good brake wise now.

the 'clunk' is acutally a snapped bolt that must of happened after the car was put back down.

now I have a bolt that stuck IN the car that will need to be drilled out.

FFS.

this is going to get expensive.:curse:

if you have enough room you might be able to weld something to it and unbolt it. it all depends, however. E-Z Out bits or the like are usually your friend.

[nrubenstein]

What bolt snapped? If one snapped, I would seriously consider replacing all of them.