Options on Stuck M3 CABS?

[jlsr]

Ok Gentlemen....I read all the posts / DIY threads, swapped out the tie rods, refreshed the struts with billie's and new shock mounts, and made the "puller" tool to mount the M3 cabs on new CAs. However, the "puller" for the cabs wimped out and only drove the bushing about 80% onto the cab before giving up the ghost. Now that it's 9:30 at night with no hardware stores open, what are the options?

Is the M3 cab screwed at this point? Or can I beef up the puller and drive it on the rest of the way tomorrow night? By now, or it will shortly, the lube will dried and done but I'm out of time.

Can the cab be removed without destroying it so that it can be remounted with additional lube?

Thanks in advance!

[Mr. Tasty]

if you get it off, put the CAB in the freezer for 30 min. I just replaced mine today and did this

[DRTSRFR]

Don't even mess with all that stuff.

Put some soap around the hole in the bushing, hold it up to the stud on the control arm and give it a whack with a soft faced hammer. Once you have the lollipop on the control arm you can orient it(twist) to the mounting points on the chassis.

5 minutes per side and your done.

[brickwhite]

Once they are on, it's tough to get them off. (which you already know)

You can try to beef up the puller and as long as the Rubber does not get damaged the bushing should be ok. One guy on the board rents a puller just for those for around $50. You may be able to fab up something similar.

When put mine on I just used the Freezer, some Dish soap, and push hard, no tools needed.

[MikeDE]

Don't even mess with all that stuff.

Put some soap around the hole in the bushing, hold it up to the stud on the control arm and give it a whack with a soft faced hammer. Once you have the lollipop on the control arm you can orient it(twist) to the mounting points on the chassis.

5 minutes per side and your done.

^This is how i've done mine every time.

[jlsr]

Thanks for the feedback. Since the bushing is on 80% of the way on the rear of the control arm, I'm going to attempt to drive it on the rest of the way. If the doesn't work, I'll drill it out and start over.

In one regard, I'm thinking that starting over with another bushing may be better since the bushing has been sitting in this position for over 24 hours. I'm wary that if i get the bushing on, put on the tire and set the car on the ground, that the bushing may not properly set up in relationship to the other wheel/bushing when I get it on.

In hindsight, I believe my f'up was the lube. I used a liquid soap/water mix that probably was not soapy enough or dried up too fast. Should I have used the straight, undiluted dishwashing liquid, like Dawn / Palmolive?

[devon.818]

Puller? Why? Pyrrha lollipop in anpress, grab a handful of sockets and find one that sits flush on the metal ring of the CAB, press into lollipop with silvan spray.


Same thing to ge it on control arm, same socket should work.


A hammer? Really? You are hitting rubber! It won't do a damn thing!

I have a tool a friend machines for this, same idea as a socket but actually made to do this.


P.s, c-clamp will do the bushings into lollipop, bigger c clamp can get it on control arm, pipe clamp is easier

[Mr. Burns]

I ended up using fire for mine. Melted them right out.

[jlsr]

Thanks for the reponses. I took a small sledge and a large eye bolt to the bushings metal rims to loosen the cab and then was able to twist it off. Using a beefed up all-thread, I was able to drive the bushing on easily with "undiluted" liquid detergent. So now, with the driver side done, on to the passenger side suspension.

In case anyone reads a cab install DIY that suggests using "soapy water", that's a mistake. It only leads to a constipated bushing.

[tjmonsen5]

Use straight soap, and muscle. Thats how I do them. Just push really hard, it will slide on.