Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

cant find to many informative write ups on where to weld coilover

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    cant find to many informative write ups on where to weld coilover

    I have some strut housings and coilovers in my room but have trouble finding threads on exactly where to cut, re weld, then weld perch and such and such. I also cant seem to find much information explaining why if your cutting the strut to lower it ppl are putting washers at the bottom..is that only for shorter struts?

    i have been doing research and found an e30performance article but he only shows a pic of a measuring tape and the after product, not much explanation. I am cutting off the wide stock spring perch but id rather not chop off 2in if i dont have to. Im using billy hd's for now but have a spare set im getting re-valved for my spring rates.

    now if i had bilstein shorten my strut length while they re-valve it would i then need a shortened housing, or do i need it already.

    sorry if its complicated but if any one has answers id much appreciate it...
    m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
    build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

    #2
    Yes, the cutting of the strut tube and use of washers/spacers is only for use of shortened struts.

    All you need to cut is the spring perch. I typically weld the flat mounting flange for the coil over threaded sleeve at the same point as the stock perch. Just be sure that it isnt too high to where the threaded sleeve will interfere with the gland nut for your shock insert.

    If you had bilstein shorten your shocks, you would have to give them the specs you wanted them shortened by, and then just remove that same amount from your strut tubes.
    sigpic

    Comment


      #3
      thanks bro. that was helpful.why do people say it will be stock height if u weld it there then? if anyone is doing this wouldnt they have a 6 or 7 in coil spring
      m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
      build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

      Comment


        #4
        I just did this with my 84 and used a 6" spring and sat the sleeve right on top of where the old spring perch used to be. When I cut the spring perch off I left a lip on the strut tube. Worked great and the car is stupid low with it adjusted all the way down.
        Attached Files
        1984 325e
        2000 323i

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by e^2 View Post
          I just did this with my 84 and used a 6" spring and sat the sleeve right on top of where the old spring perch used to be. When I cut the spring perch off I left a lip on the strut tube. Worked great and the car is stupid low with it adjusted all the way down.
          thanks for the pic.

          did you just shove the perch down on the strut housing. mine is a TIIGHt fit but i think a block of wood and a mallet will get it down there. how do you get it back up and off when the time comes to change the strut. i almost put the perch on yesterday just to see how low it goes cause i have struts being re valved for my spring rates. so i decided to just wait til i get the "new" struts
          m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
          build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510

          Comment


            #6
            My sleeve is big enough to go over the strut, but not big enough to go over the strut nut that keeps the insert in there. Obviously I took off the nut to get it on but I didn't not weld the sleeve to the strut.
            1984 325e
            2000 323i

            Comment

            Working...
            X