Steering wobble/pull

[capitoljake13]

Only when turning left, and typically only for larger turns at higher speeds, I'll enter a turn (left) and and the wheel will pull right quick as the wheels track that way, and then return. It's probably not enough that a passenger wouldn't notice unless I point it out. But to the driver it feels uncontrolled, maybe even dangerous.

The car had this issue when I got it. I just did new inner/outer tie rods, new wheel bearings, new CAB's, drop-links, HR/billy sport suspension, new strut bearings, (basically everything I can think of in the front except sway-bar and sway bushings)

Any other thoughts on what the issue might be? The steering bushing from wheel to rack looks fine. Is it just a crap rack? There's zero leaking and I can see the fluid changing over in the reservoir (though I'm not sure at what rate)

Or the wheels? It's not a stock wheel/tire, but a lower profile tire that came with the car. Just would suspect it to be a problem turning either direction if it were tires

[EyExR]

Really sounds like a bad rack but here are a couple of thoughts. I would do the following, from the cheapest solution possible.

Rotate your tires from back to front.

Feel for play in the steering U-joint.

How about your ball joints?

Also CV joints can do this. Is the boot torn or any clicking?

Also - how's the condition of your from shock mounts/bearings?

As you put in new suspension components, the errors of a single problem become more pronounced. You have to eliminate every variable. Good luck.

[jlevie]

You say you replaced the control arm bushings. Did you also replace the control arms?
What are the front and rear alignment numbers?
Have the subframe and trailing arm bushings been replaced?

While you feel the effect in the steering, if the rear suspension bushings are bad and there is any change in rear toe or camber as the car's weight shifts that will cause a change in steering.

[camshaftgsxr]

i had a huge pull and a bad vibration right before i got rid of my last set of tires, turns out all it was, was a broken belt in the tire.

i would rotate them and then give your steering a full eval, alot of the bigger automotive shops (sears, mieneke, pepboys) will give you a full steering eval for free99 or a few bucks if you dont feel like tackling it yourself on jackstands

[EyExR]

^ oh god. keep your car far away from those shops. FAR away!

[yeaseth]

Yeah is the rack the stock e30 rack? mine felt kinda offset as well, and when I swapped to the e36 m3 rack everything was even and tight feeling, after an alignment of course. but before you swap your rack I guess check to make sure your springs are sitting properly? and maybe check to see if the top threaded locker nut that holds your shock insert down is tight? maybe the ball joints for in you control arm are messed? That's all I got at the moment, Good luck!

[capitoljake13]

Really sounds like a bad rack but here are a couple of thoughts. I would do the following, from the cheapest solution possible.

Rotate your tires from back to front.

Feel for play in the steering U-joint.

How about your ball joints?

Also CV joints can do this. Is the boot torn or any clicking?

Also - how's the condition of your from shock mounts/bearings?

As you put in new suspension components, the errors of a single problem become more pronounced. You have to eliminate every variable. Good luck.

A tire rotation was first on my list of things to try. I'll do that this weekend. The steering u-joint "looks" fine, and didn't seem to have a lot of play. Some, yes, but no more than I suspected would be typical. I would also think a bad u-joint would mean crappy steering all around, yes?

Ball joints; I replaced left joints via a new control arm because I destroyed a boot removing it. The right I left as is. Bad idea? Possibly.. Once it gets put up again this winter I'll swap the right one just for the sake of doing them within a few thousand miles of each other. But, the ball joints themselves don't have any play. To be honest, I wanted to point the finger directly to the ONE component I didn't replace, that front right control arm.. but wanted some input on other potential causes.

I haven't done any work to the rear, so if the rear is shifting it will probably also have to wait until winter. The front was just aligned by the shop, but I didn't ask to check the numbers on the rear.

So basically.. it's a problem that existed before and after all of the front suspension work I did. I'll rotate the tires to see if that changes anything. If not, some further inspection of the steering u-joint, and probably replace the last stock component - right control arm. Finally, if those things accomplish nothing I'm blaming the rack. (Or the pump?)

[EyExR]

Sounds like a good order of operation.

The pump? I'm would think you could just remove the V-belt temporarily to check for that... but I'm not sure.

I've shared the same wobbly/pull problem since I swapped my rack and redid my front suspension about a year ago. Although I've been doing a full suspension and engine rebuild throughout. Swapping out another rack this time, while the engine was out. Hopefully I've tracked it down.

[camshaftgsxr]

^ oh god. keep your car far away from those shops. FAR away!

i donno how they are were you live but the one here has ase cert. mechanics and a lot of them are regulars at the auto crosses. :yawn:

[EyExR]

i donno how they are were you live but the one here has ase cert. mechanics and a lot of them are regulars at the auto crosses. :yawn:

complete opposite over here....