Upgrading to m3 drop links worth it?

[Roysneon]

I haven't driven on it yet and will report back when I have but:

I installed my e30m3 5 lug suspension on my car. Just during installation I realized that the strut mounted links would help swaybar effectiveness. I had to jack up both sides under the outer ball joint in order to get it in place on both sides. Also saw the swaybar move a lot more on the side that I had yet to hook up once I had done the first compared to the non-m links.

I am only on HR race springs but I feel that now with the suspension geometry can be alterd via lowering springs without negatively affecting handling via worsening control arm angle (camber curve), roll center spacers to combat bump steer and if I deem them necessary for my ride height I can also use adjustable drop links. I'm currently running stock m3 links.

After my m50 swap I feel like I lost something in the way the front end doesn't like to change direction as upposed to how it was with a 4 cyl. engine. I'm hoping the more effective front bar will help bring that back to how it was before that I liked so much.

[Andy.B]

I bought the m3 mounts from Ireland Engineering, along with m3 sway bar links for about $15 a piece from my flaps. I installed them on Saturday to try the setup out at autox on Sunday, and it was a MASSIVE improvement on controlling body roll. The car is more susceptible to plowing when accelerating out of a turn, but overall I feel it is more balanced front to back, as I can still step the back out too. I guess I would say it seems more neutral. After I got a bit more feel for the car I was able to cut my times considerably, and hold a lot more speed through the turns, especially through slaloms, where the body roll used to make it difficult to keep smooth, and make transitions tougher.

I would HIGHLY recommend this cheap, quick upgrade. It really made a huge improvement on the feel of the car in low speed maneuvers (driveways and city intersections).

[lambo]

That's the best thing to do. Disconnect both sides.

Sometimes it's hard to feel for play in joints and bushings when things are connected and loaded with weight/pressure.

Just messed around with it. Turns out my culprit is a blown left shock... I would have never known if I didn't mess with the ride height because it was as high up as it would go so the spring was providing pressure against the strut and top mount.

[acolella76]

How much are the OEM links? You can make adjustable links for a bit cheaper than you can buy from IE so it depends entirely on what you want.

To make your own links you need:

Two of these shifter rods in whatever length you want (7" is about equal to stock length when all is said and done)

Two RIGHT HAND THREAD 3/8-24 rod ends w/ male shank
Two LEFT HAND THREAD 3/8-24 rod ends w/ male shank

Two LH 3/8-24 jam nuts and two RH jam nuts as well.

And some washers.

But yeah, that's how you make adjustable sway bar end links for anyone who's interested. They can be cheap or they can be really nice, it all depends on which rod ends you choose. When I was planning on running M3 strut tubes, I had made adjustable end links with Aurora rod ends which are really nice. They ended up costing more than what IE would have, though.


You should be fine with a stock bar... no need to downgrade.

[bastianshaw]

get the adjustable links form IE

[VinniE30]

I have m3 sway tabs on my strut housings and i'm going to use them instead of the control arm mounts after everything i've read.
Since it increases the sway bar effect do you think a stock e30 sway bar would be good or put in an m3 sway bar because the stock e30 one would be too stiff?
Can I use oem m3 sway bar links or should I use adjustable links like the ones from IE? I have GC coils so i'll be moderately low.

[JGood]

Forgive me if this is a dumb question.... I'm planning on running H&R race springs. I was planning on using the factory sway mount, will the car be low enough where that's a problem? My subframe won't be spaced down like yours is...

Nope, shouldn't be any issues.

[mulletman]

Forgive me if this is a dumb question.... I'm planning on running H&R race springs. I was planning on using the factory sway mount, will the car be low enough where that's a problem? My subframe won't be spaced down like yours is...

[JGood]

Ahh, didn't realize that... I have checked basically everything else. I was about to disconnect the front sway bar and see if it still made the noise just to rule out possibilities. It's frustrating!

That's the best thing to do. Disconnect both sides.

Sometimes it's hard to feel for play in joints and bushings when things are connected and loaded with weight/pressure.

[lambo]

If there is clunking from the link, the joints are worn and need replaced. It is metal on metal, that's what heim joints are, but it is supposed to be tight clearance with no play. If there's play, it needs replaced.

Could be anything in the suspension though, you need to check all bushings, ball joints, mounts, etc...

Ahh, didn't realize that... I have checked basically everything else. I was about to disconnect the front sway bar and see if it still made the noise just to rule out possibilities. It's frustrating!

[JGood]

Well the adjustable endlinks I have are a metal on metal joint so there's no rubber bushing or anything. When I bought the car, Bishop said that the clunking was from them but I'm having doubts now.

If there is clunking from the link, the joints are worn and need replaced. It is metal on metal, that's what heim joints are, but it is supposed to be tight clearance with no play. If there's play, it needs replaced.

Could be anything in the suspension though, you need to check all bushings, ball joints, mounts, etc...

[lambo]

Loud clunking sounds like bad ball joints/end links somewhere

Well the adjustable endlinks I have are a metal on metal joint so there's no rubber bushing or anything. When I bought the car, Bishop said that the clunking was from them but I'm having doubts now.

[acolella76]

Loud clunking sounds like bad ball joints/end links somewhere

[lambo]

Does anyone else get a loud clunking with the M3 endlinks?

[bastianshaw]

Okay. My concern was the precise location of the links, I hear they break easily if not set to correct angle and location. Some set them at the ending of the bar, some other at 1.5 inches from the ending, I just wanted to see if expertise could help me out there with those factors, I don't want to be changing links all the time. I'll be doing the job next weekend, and like they say; a picture speaks a thousand words or something like that. Thanks anyways.

yea this is a major concern of mine too, i doubt the welds will break and the more i think about it it wont really matter the exact location