Steering rack and hoses replacement.

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • salvuhdor
    replied
    My car does have an Airbag btw, if it didn't I would still be debating on which steering rack to get.
    I will be purchasing an e30 stock steering rack from rack doctor soon. Along with purchasing pressure hose from RockAuto then the reservoir and other lines/hoses.

    Leave a comment:


  • salvuhdor
    replied
    Originally posted by MoreMayhem
    I debated over which rack to replace mine with.
    Ended up with an E30 replacement. Just having a rack that works properly is a vast improvement over what I had before. My car is a daily driver so it is perfect for my needs. Rack doctor is a great choice.
    This is kinda of what I was looking for. I was lead to believe the stock e30 rack is shitty and bad. All I need is just for simple daily driving.

    THANKS!

    Leave a comment:


  • cormier
    replied
    Ooh I do now see what you mean. It would be good to get some measurements. I've never had a binding problem...

    All I can say is that you can also adjust how much the knuckle goes onto either shaft so that may help compensate slightly. Also, the position of the spacers (above or below rack) would also influence this

    Leave a comment:


  • CarsSuck
    replied
    Please correct me if I'm wrong, but from the photos I've seen, it looks like the e36 rack is straighter in the horizontal plane, but lower in the vertical. So the shaft defelcts more downwards. I haven't actually had my hands on one, so i'm really just guessing.

    Some people need to clearance the u joints to prevent binding. That is another reason I assume there is more deflection.

    If you have a swivel joint in your tool box, play with that and some extensions and I think you'll see what i mean, When the u joint "turns over", it rotates quicker than in the "flat" area. The greater the deflection, the greater the effect.

    Leave a comment:


  • cormier
    replied
    Originally posted by CarsSuck
    You need to read the other threads posted in here.

    My concern that no one seems to address is the input/output ratio of the u joints. They are after all u joints, not a constant velocity joint. So the increased angle leads to even more non-linearity, depending on steering angle. You end up having places in the rotation of the steering wheel that result in greater rotation of the lower end of the joint (at the rack) than you put in with the steering wheel.

    Sure faster steering might be desirable, but the modifications have to be done correctly otherwise you get bumpsteer and a janky steering linkage.
    What angle are you referring to?

    As he said, I managed to get away with doing no modification whatsoever. Airbag cars are a different story.

    Leave a comment:


  • MoreMayhem
    replied
    I debated over which rack to replace mine with.
    Ended up with an E30 replacement. Just having a rack that works properly is a vast improvement over what I had before. My car is a daily driver so it is perfect for my needs. Rack doctor is a great choice.

    Leave a comment:


  • CarsSuck
    replied
    You need to read the other threads posted in here.

    That said, the e36/46 racks usually require some mods to the steering joint and/or firewall if you have an airbag car. Some people seem to get away with doing nothing,
    I don't really see the need for faster steering. I don't have problems with its slowness (and I dont even have PS right now).

    My concern that no one seems to address is the input/output ratio of the u joints. They are after all u joints, not a constant velocity joint. So the increased angle leads to even more non-linearity, depending on steering angle. You end up having places in the rotation of the steering wheel that result in greater rotation of the lower end of the joint (at the rack) than you put in with the steering wheel.

    Sure faster steering might be desirable, but the modifications have to be done correctly otherwise you get bumpsteer and a janky steering linkage.

    Leave a comment:


  • ELVA164
    replied
    Originally posted by salvuhdor
    So my question now is, what extra parts will I need if I purchase the complete e36 steering rack assembly? (And I am using e30 p/s pump, pressure hose, reservoir etc.
    I will just use original e30 tie rods assembly as I have them brand new.
    You can keep the original pump, hoses, and tie rods. Just MAKE SURE you get inners and outers from the same model. You can't match E30 inners and E36 outers or visa versa. Also, as suggested you should replace the reservoir because it has a non-serviceable filter that's supposed to be replaced every 100k miles or so. Specifics are located in the threads I posted.

    Also, since you have E30 outer tie rods already, some places will install the E30 inners to an E36 rack if you request it.

    Leave a comment:


  • salvuhdor
    replied
    So my question now is, what extra parts will I need if I purchase the complete e36 steering rack assembly? (And I am using e30 p/s pump, pressure hose, reservoir etc.
    I will just use original e30 tie rods assembly as I have them brand new.

    Leave a comment:


  • salvuhdor
    replied
    Originally posted by CarsSuck
    What kind of core did you send in to rackDR for the ZHP unit?

    I also need a new rack, but it seems like lots of extra $$ for a newer rack if I need a similar core. A rebuilt e30 rack is only $150.

    For the core, as long as you sent in your used one, they will refund the amount that the original e30 steering rack core has listed on the site which is $65.

    If you get a rebuilt one make sure it has a good warranty! I am going to purchase one on the last days of February so I want to put in my research to see which rack is worth getting and less painful.

    As long as I install just a quality stock e30 steering rack I think I will be good. But others are suggesting an e36/46 rack.

    Leave a comment:


  • salvuhdor
    replied
    Originally posted by Just Scott
    Read the posts above.

    Also, replace the reservoir. Once you take it out, you will see that it is full of goop and dirt. Apparently, there's a filter in there that you can't change and probably can't clean.

    $20 well spent.
    yes might as well. THANKS

    Originally posted by cormier
    The e36 or e46 racks are really a small difference in installation. I have an e46 330 rack and its awesome. You didn't miss anything in the DIYs, the process isn't that hard
    If I install a different rack I will need a difference drive shaft to connect on to the custom rack?

    Leave a comment:


  • CarsSuck
    replied
    What kind of core did you send in to rackDR for the ZHP unit?

    I also need a new rack, but it seems like lots of extra $$ for a newer rack if I need a similar core. A rebuilt e30 rack is only $150.

    Leave a comment:


  • cormier
    replied
    The e36 or e46 racks are really a small difference in installation. I have an e46 330 rack and its awesome. You didn't miss anything in the DIYs, the process isn't that hard

    Leave a comment:


  • Just Scott
    replied
    Read the posts above.

    Also, replace the reservoir. Once you take it out, you will see that it is full of goop and dirt. Apparently, there's a filter in there that you can't change and probably can't clean.

    $20 well spent.

    Leave a comment:


  • ELVA164
    replied
    Seriously, take a look at the threads I posted before. There's a ton of good info and previous experiences in there. The e36 swap looks fairly painless to me, granted I haven't done one myself....yet :D

    Leave a comment:

Working...