Rear Koni Adjustables

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Originally posted by Vivek
    If you're doing this from under the car, laying on your back, turning the bottom part of the shock clockwise/tightening is firmer, right?
    Correct

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  • Nsquared97
    replied
    If you haven't adjusted them yet:

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    Anything firmer then full soft makes it real twitching back there for me.
    on ie3.

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  • Vivek
    replied
    If you're doing this from under the car, laying on your back, turning the bottom part of the shock clockwise/tightening is firmer, right?

    Leave a comment:


  • IronFreak
    replied
    Thanks! Ill do that!

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  • DRTSRFR
    replied
    Soo many variables...

    When you're ready to order, call me, I'll spend time with you customizing the set-up.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    What would you recommend for track rates, this isnt going to be a dd, thats why i mentioned getting a GC kit that would accommodate track use.

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  • DRTSRFR
    replied
    A 5.0 weighs in around 530 pounds. An M20, 340 or so...


    550 should be a good street rate for a 5.0 and a Tremec/5.

    Don't even think about bars until you have the springs and damper set up. Too many people throw bars at a chassis for no reason other than to have them.

    The Koni/Eibach setup, as well as a lower CG will dramatically reduce body roll.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Thank you, I replied to your PM, may be coming to you for a complete setup. What would you suggest for sways? I'd prefer to control as much roll as possible with my springs, do my rates look to be off with the setup I'll be running?

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  • DRTSRFR
    replied
    For 650 rears baseline them at 1 turn off of firm to get started.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Thanks guys I'll do that!

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  • acolella76
    replied
    There isn't a set rebound adjustment for certain spring rates, you have to adjust the shocks to what suits your taste and driving style the best.

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  • DRTSRFR
    replied
    The bumpstop will be tucked up in the dust shield.

    Push a coathanger or other piece of rod down thorugh one of the holes in the top of the shield, it'll push the bumpstop down so you can access and remove it.

    The plastic "washer" is to prevent the bumpstop from contacting the dust wiper seal.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Originally posted by jlevie
    You can see the instructions on Koni's site. With those spring rates you might try starting at about 2 turns from full soft.

    550 front and 650 rear strikes me as an awul lot of front spring as compared to the rears. Usually you'd want the front springs to be about 55-60% of the rears unless the engine has been swapped out with one a lot heavier than stock.
    A built sbf with ported E7 heads and a 63mm turbo will be sitting in it paired up to a tremec tr-3550 transmission.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Are they way up inside the top? When I fully extend them there is a plastic like washer I can see that I took off, but it still didn't seem to do anything. Of course I'm not sure what to expect in the first place.

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