darting around

[LateFan]

Hey, just picked up an '86 E coupe with 175k. Reasonably good upkeep and history, but not really car people.

My son & I drove it home 45 miles last night on a 60 to 70mph divided highway. Hummed right along. Felt fairly solid, but on slight rises or dips it would try to dart off this direction or that. Not bad, you just had to pay attention.

At rolling / slow speed, the steering has a bit of on-center slop to it maybe.

So, we haven't climbed under to really study things yet, but do you think that's in the control arms? Steering / tie rods? Bushings? Rear bushings?

Where's the best place to start to get this guy stable and tracking well?
Thanks -

[jlevie]

Control arms, control arm bushings, tie rods, rear trailing arm bushings, and subframe bushings all probably need to be replaced.

[LateFan]

What is the downside to pressing new fittings into the control arms versus replacing? Looks cheaper generally. Pelican has a decent kit with arms included.

Also, what does the offset lollipop bushing do? Is that a castor change?

Thanks -

[ak-]

You can press in control arm bushings; everyone does.
Control arm balljoints are a different game, and people usually just replace the whole arm when it gets to that.

And yes, offset increases caster.

[LateFan]

Thanks - so the CA balljoints are hard to get out?

[IronFreak]

you need at least a 10-12 ton press to do it. I did mine but I have access to a 20 ton press. It only cost me $57 to replace them with meyle ball joints from fcp.

edit: If you have access to that there is a good write up in the diy section.

[LateFan]

OK - thanks to all!

[LateFan]

We got it lifted and spent some time underneath last night. I understand now - those are some pretty beefy ball joints.

Read through the write-up. I would have to take them in to a machine shop to press them. Would that cancel out the savings?

There is quite a bit of slop in one inner tie rod, and in the opposite balljoint at the bottom of the strut tower. We also discovered that we drove it home with 30 lbs in one front tire and 45 in the other...(?). Should have checked them before we left.

Any opinions on Lemfoerder versus Febi control arm assemblies? $20 difference. What are the Asian ones to avoid?
Thanks -

[IronFreak]

Go with Lemfoerder if your buying new. whatever you replace on the left, replace on the right if you get my drift.

Utilize:
Pelican
GPS
Blunttech
FCPgroton

For parts.

[IronFreak]

As far as cancelling out savings it depends on what the shop charges. Like I said before, I paid $57 to replace all my ball joints. I don't know what new control arms cost.

[LateFan]

Right. Lemfoerders at Pelican are $91 each, then you need the end bushings.

We'll do the whole front end to start with - steering, control arms, brake hoses - then look at the rear bushings.

Thanks for the list - I've used Pelican in the past for Audi parts.

[LJ851]

If it still has original BMW control arms i would put new OEM ball joints in them.

You may want to check your front toe setting first, that could be your dartiness all by itself.




Give Steve at blunttech.com a shout, Factory and OEM parts at great prices and ridiculously awesome service.

[LateFan]

great prices and ridiculously awesome service.

..and drawings I gather!

I'm sure it's all original - doesn't look like it's ever been apart, and it's really loose. Maybe a 1/4" of play in the right side strut ball joint alone.