Swaybar Endlink Installation EXTRAVAGANZA
- Andrew Adams @ Ireland Engineering
NOTE 1: (just to get this out of the way). The angle doesn't matter (this applies to those shortening their endlinks to get the bars parallel to the ground) except for clearance reasons. An angled sway bar still has the same torsional characteristics throughout the range of motion as one parallel with the ground would because the moment arm is equal and opposite on each side. That is assuming that the endlinks have no load in the neutral position which is what adjustable ones solve. If anything, by shortening the overall length of the endlink you are reducing the arc radius of the endlink which can cause your swaybar to bind (and destroy the heim-joints).
SWAY BAR ENDLINK INSTALLATION:
-Mount the bar using the chassis pivot bushings to start with (the center bushings) (be sure to liberally lube both the inside and outside of the bushing using the provided grease). This will leave the bar ends hanging.
***(for adjustable endlinks only)
- Put the car on jackstands.
- Unscrew the top endlink heim-joint from the rest of the link, put it through the sway bar (do not tighten, it will be dangling).
- Put the bottom piece of the endlink in its spot but do not tighten.
- As you jack the rear suspension up you will see that the upper and lower portions of the endlinks will line up. With the suspension compressed, reattach the endlink portions and tighten. ***
***(for stock-style endlinks)
- Put the car on jackstands (unless you’re using ramps)
- install one end of the endlink through the swaybar, do not tighten.
- With a jack start to compress the suspension, the other end link will naturally start to line up with the hole on the car. Slide stud through; begin to thread the nut on.
- After making sure the suspension is fully under load you can tighten the endlink nuts down.
- DO NOT install the endlinks while pre-loading the suspension (by man-handling the endlink into place). If you install the endlinks with the car in the air it will pre-stress the swaybar when it's on the ground at neutral, this will lead to premature endlink failure.
For a car whose endlinks include a U-shaped bracket (E30) make sure that you leave the U-bracket loose when setting the endlinks. Place a floor jack under the control arm, and cycle the suspension up and down. The U-bracket will "automagically" position itself in the best orientation as the suspension is cycled, and then it can be tightened down. During the bar's rotation it will have a slight angle to its rotation, If you don't do allow the bracket to be slightly angled; the endlink heim-joint will want to rotate beyond its limits popping out the seals (this is a major reason behind premature endlink failures).
- Andrew Adams @ Ireland Engineering
NOTE 1: (just to get this out of the way). The angle doesn't matter (this applies to those shortening their endlinks to get the bars parallel to the ground) except for clearance reasons. An angled sway bar still has the same torsional characteristics throughout the range of motion as one parallel with the ground would because the moment arm is equal and opposite on each side. That is assuming that the endlinks have no load in the neutral position which is what adjustable ones solve. If anything, by shortening the overall length of the endlink you are reducing the arc radius of the endlink which can cause your swaybar to bind (and destroy the heim-joints).
SWAY BAR ENDLINK INSTALLATION:
-Mount the bar using the chassis pivot bushings to start with (the center bushings) (be sure to liberally lube both the inside and outside of the bushing using the provided grease). This will leave the bar ends hanging.
***(for adjustable endlinks only)
- Put the car on jackstands.
- Unscrew the top endlink heim-joint from the rest of the link, put it through the sway bar (do not tighten, it will be dangling).
- Put the bottom piece of the endlink in its spot but do not tighten.
- As you jack the rear suspension up you will see that the upper and lower portions of the endlinks will line up. With the suspension compressed, reattach the endlink portions and tighten. ***
***(for stock-style endlinks)
- Put the car on jackstands (unless you’re using ramps)
- install one end of the endlink through the swaybar, do not tighten.
- With a jack start to compress the suspension, the other end link will naturally start to line up with the hole on the car. Slide stud through; begin to thread the nut on.
- After making sure the suspension is fully under load you can tighten the endlink nuts down.
- DO NOT install the endlinks while pre-loading the suspension (by man-handling the endlink into place). If you install the endlinks with the car in the air it will pre-stress the swaybar when it's on the ground at neutral, this will lead to premature endlink failure.
For a car whose endlinks include a U-shaped bracket (E30) make sure that you leave the U-bracket loose when setting the endlinks. Place a floor jack under the control arm, and cycle the suspension up and down. The U-bracket will "automagically" position itself in the best orientation as the suspension is cycled, and then it can be tightened down. During the bar's rotation it will have a slight angle to its rotation, If you don't do allow the bracket to be slightly angled; the endlink heim-joint will want to rotate beyond its limits popping out the seals (this is a major reason behind premature endlink failures).
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