THE QUESTION: Rear bar or no rear bar?

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  • totheredline
    Mod Crazy
    • Jun 2013
    • 762

    #1

    THE QUESTION: Rear bar or no rear bar?

    I've researched quite a bit and cant decide wether to run either: A- "No rear sway" B-"factory rear sway with poly bushings and new links" OR C-"aftermarket bar"

    Certianly the cheapest option would be to ditch the rear bar altogether. However, the car is sitting or a bilstien BTS kit (slightly stiffer springs than H&R sport) and I dont know if the springs will be able to control body roll enough on their own. But I also dont want a huge rear bar that induces snap oversteer and causes the rear end to loose grip early.

    I would like the car to be as forgiving and grippy as possible WITHOUT sacrificing performance with a retarded ammount of understeer.

    Im only 18 and just getting into autocross. I really want to learn car control before anything else.

    Suspension as it sits now (if this helps)
    -ST adjustable front bar
    -Condor UHMV M3 offset fcab's
    -front x brace
    -front and rear strut braces
    -poly RTAB's
    -aluminum subframe bushings
    - Cosmos camber plates
    - Bilstien BTS kit
    -Z3 2.7 turn rack
    -All new ball joints and tie rods


    = Heidi 1988 325 -> 335i. 7200rpm built M30
  • matthugie
    E30 Mastermind
    • Mar 2004
    • 1810

    #2
    There is a ton of info on sway setups in the Track & Autox section, including a thread about disconnecting the rear sway in the top 5 threads. You'll probably have better luck by searching over there.

    Edit: you should also know what class you're prepping for. The stock classes have only allowed one bar to be changed, though there are some class changes coming for 2014, so consult the rule book before doing anything. I think the rack swap would technically put you in SM, but it's kind of a nitpick thing that a lot of clubs would still allow in stock classes.
    Last edited by matthugie; 12-19-2013, 08:48 AM.
    88 325is - S52 powered

    Originally posted by King Arthur
    We'll not risk another frontal assault, that rabbit's dynamite!

    Comment

    • totheredline
      Mod Crazy
      • Jun 2013
      • 762

      #3
      I ordered some poly bushings and adjustable end links for the OE bar. Ill mess around with it at the track and see what happens.
      = Heidi 1988 325 -> 335i. 7200rpm built M30

      Comment

      • Bglad
        E30 Addict
        • Jul 2010
        • 562

        #4
        The mods you list are far from stock. You most likely end up in a prepared or mod class with solid subframe bushings and rack swap

        Suspension as it sits now (if this helps)
        -ST adjustable front bar
        -Condor UHMV M3 offset fcab's
        -front x brace
        -front and rear strut braces
        -poly RTAB's
        -aluminum subframe bushings
        - Cosmos camber plates
        - Bilstien BTS kit
        -Z3 2.7 turn rack
        -All new ball joints and tie rods

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          I would expect that car to push badly with no rear bar. E30's are not bad for snap oversteer if properly set up. And once you learn to manage it a touch of oversteer can be faster.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • acolella76
            R3VLimited
            • Apr 2010
            • 2950

            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie
            I would expect that car to push badly with no rear bar. E30's are not bad for snap oversteer if properly set up. And once you learn to manage it a touch of oversteer can be faster.
            +1. I ran no rear bar for one autocross event and immediately reconnected the bar. Getting that rear end to rotate really helps in tight corners.
            -Alex

            Comment

            • I8UR911
              Wrencher
              • Jan 2013
              • 260

              #7
              Your going to have to figure out what works best for your car.

              I run no rear bar in my car without strut bars and a ST front bar on the second setting. 205/50/15's give it great grip and I get more oversteer than understeer. I also run GC coils; 750f 550r.

              I would assume you'd be just fine without a rear bar seeing as your set up sounds fairly stiff. ... with the front and rear strut braces, solid bushings, etc.

              Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

              Comment

              • acolella76
                R3VLimited
                • Apr 2010
                • 2950

                #8
                Originally posted by I8UR911
                Your going to have to figure out what works best for your car.

                I run no rear bar in my car without strut bars and a ST front bar on the second setting. 205/50/15's give it great grip and I get more oversteer than understeer. I also run GC coils; 750f 550r.

                I would assume you'd be just fine without a rear bar seeing as your set up sounds fairly stiff. ... with the front and rear strut braces, solid bushings, etc.

                Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
                You sure those rates aren't backwards? Soft rear end and no rear bar is usually a recipe for massive amounts of understeer in an E30.
                -Alex

                Comment

                • I8UR911
                  Wrencher
                  • Jan 2013
                  • 260

                  #9
                  Rates are backwards....... sorry guys. Nice catch.

                  Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

                  Comment

                  • totheredline
                    Mod Crazy
                    • Jun 2013
                    • 762

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Bglad
                    The mods you list are far from stock. You most likely end up in a prepared or mod class with solid subframe bushings and rack swap

                    Suspension as it sits now (if this helps)
                    -ST adjustable front bar
                    -Condor UHMV M3 offset fcab's
                    -front x brace
                    -front and rear strut braces
                    -poly RTAB's
                    -aluminum subframe bushings
                    - Cosmos camber plates
                    - Bilstien BTS kit
                    -Z3 2.7 turn rack
                    -All new ball joints and tie rods

                    I will be able to compete in the novice events for the first 4 events. After that I'll be in street prepared.

                    Also found out the springs rates are actually pretty soft. 125-155lbs progressive rate fo the front and 350lbs rear.
                    Last edited by totheredline; 12-28-2013, 05:33 PM.
                    = Heidi 1988 325 -> 335i. 7200rpm built M30

                    Comment

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