So yeah the suspension rebuild is almost complete and all I have left to do is install my new tie rods. Couple questions. Can I reuse the boots if they are in good shape? Also, how hard is the job. I need the car back on the road asap and cant be dealing with needless problems I didnt plan for. What should I pay attention to when replacing them? I have two new complete tie rod assemblies.
Tie Rod replacement tips
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Originally posted by FifeDog236So yeah the suspension rebuild is almost complete and all I have left to do is install my new tie rods. Couple questions. Can I reuse the boots if they are in good shape? Also, how hard is the job. I need the car back on the road asap and cant be dealing with needless problems I didnt plan for. What should I pay attention to when replacing them? I have two new complete tie rod assemblies.
I would recommend replacing the nuts for the ball joints.
You'll most likely have to give the spindle a sharp whack with a hammer to break the tie rod loose. Hit it right where the ball joint stud goes through.
Also, count the threads on the old tie rods and set up the new ones the same-- this way the alignment won't be too out of whack.'91 318is
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Sweet. Dont worry the old tie rods are already mangled from when I was replacing my cup kit, hence why I need new ones. Forgot to leave the nut on when I was hitting the shit out of it with a hammer. Thats sweet I can reuse the boots as well. Hopefully the alignment will be ok enough to get me back to school, where I can get it properly done. Think 350 miles is to much?Back to my roots
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The tires on my car are made by Mastercraft, which prior to my ownership of the car I thought was a company that only made ski boats. That being said I really dont give a fuck as they will be roasted beyond belief as soon as I get some decent summer rims. Thanks for the help guysBack to my roots
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Reuse the old boots unless they are ripped. The clamps ON the boots are usually those gay clippy kind. Cut those and use zip ties on em when youre finished. You can leave the nut on the threads when banging it out of the strut, ONLY if you wont be needing that tie rod anymore. I did that to one of mine and the nut broke a couple threads. I had to get a new tie rod :( Order NEW lock plates as well. You dont want to reuse the old ones. Lock plates are like, $0.50 ea.
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.Comment
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Rotate the steering wheel away from the side you're working on so when your ripping on the tie rod to get it off you don't create a huge moment load in to the steering rack. You need new lock plates, hopefully you got some...you can probably eyeball the alignment good enough to make your road trip, just don't be stupid when driving with a whack alignment.318is -gone-
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Originally posted by FifeDog236Got em in today. Other than one stubborn locking plate the job was cake.
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.Comment
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It was pretty funny as the right side wasnt a problem at all but the left seemed like it was welded on. I hammered on the thing for like an hour and a half before it finnally went. I agree that with a lift it wouldnt have been a problem at all. Its all in the angle you attack it with.Back to my roots
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