Opinions on my '87 325 suspension approach

[flipwils11]

Have a few questions and wanted to run my list of parts by this esteemed forum. The car is an '87 325is 5spd coupe (that we are on the fence for keeping or selling) and if I do suspension, I'd like to do it all at once; bushings, upgraded parts, and modifications. The car is not a daily driver, it's a fun car and my wife and I both appreciate a sporty ride. We might track it some day, who knows.

Here is my list, am I missing any "while I'm in there" parts?


Turner Motorsport

E30 Suspension Package With H&R Race Springs and Bilstein Sport Shocks
Part #: E30RACE

Front Upper Strut/Shock Mount - Offset Left or Right Side - E30, E24, E28
Part #: 31331139484

Front Control Arm - Left - E30 OEM Replacement
Part #: 31121127725

Front Control Arm - Right - E30 OEM Replacement
Part #: 31121127726

Front Control Arm Bushings (FCAB) - Centered Solid Rubber - E30, E36, E36 M3, Z3 (Pair)
Part #: 31129069035
- Yes, AND pre-install bushings (pn# TSU9995PB3/035)
$185.95 (USD)

Rear Spring Pad - 5mm - E30 E36 E46 X3 Z3 Z4
Part #: 33531136385


Ireland Engineering

Adjustable 25mm Front / 22mm Rear Sway Bar Set for E30 | [e30sbs]

Tie Rod Assembly for E30 (FEBI) | [e30trod]


Billet/Urethane Rear Shock Mount Set for E30/E36 | [e30alummt]

Urethane Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit for E30/E21/Z3/E36ti/E9/E12/early E24 | [e30rearbush]

Urethane Rear Subframe Mounts, Street - E30 | [e30urethanerear]

Stainless Steel Rear Shock Tower Brace for E30 | [e30rbrace]

Front Strut Brace for E30 | [e30sb]


HD Rubber Transmission Mounts - E30, E36 | [e30transmtrbr]


Urethane Rear Differential Mount for E30 | [e30diffmt]


I'm unsure on the offset front strut mounts. Should I use those and/or fixed camber plates?

I'd like to replace all rubber items while I'm in there, like rubber spring pads. Should I add any other parts, aftermarket or OEM to do spring pads?

The Ireland Engineering sway bar kit, the reinforcements, are these metal plates ok vs the other setups that require welding in reinforcement tabs?

[fight4life28]

I would get adjustable camber plates if you go for camber plates. That way if you change the ride height later you can still adjust them. Also how do your brake lines look, Your in the general area so I would replace them. Easier to get to them when you have the rear out. Also maybe reseal your diff if its leaking...I did almost every you have posted in your list last winter and made a big difference... Also Put a coat of paint over everything and undercoated while everything was out. Glad I did it then. Check your drive shaft guibo while your replacing your transmission mounts. Thats all I can think of...

[e30_302]

Do camber plates instead of the offset strut mounts. Also a rear shock tower brace is a waste. Get M3 style control arm bushings for more castor. Now would be a good time to go to M3 style sway bar mounts up front.

[RedReplicant]

GC coilovers with camber plates instead of the H&R + Offset Strut mounts and get offset FCABs.

[fight4life28]

I have GC coilovers with camber plates. They cost a good bit more then H&R's but were worth it!

[jlevie]

I agree with those that say adjustable camber plates. But I thing the 25/22mm sways are too much for those springs. Use the 22mm/19mm sways from Bimmerworld.

[RedReplicant]

I have GC coilovers with camber plates. They cost a good bit more then H&R's but were worth it!

Offset strut mounts > $125 x 2 = $250.
H&R Turner Kit = $810
5mm Rear Spring Pad = $8
Rear Shock Mounts = $80

$1148

vs $1600 for a GC/Koni setup with adjustable camber plates

If he's dumping as much money as he was talking then it's definitely worth it.

[SkiFree]

Honestly, you're initial list is pretty dang spot on aside from offset control arm bushings and maybe some sort of front camber plate (on a stock spring diameter, fixed or adjustable doesn't mean much,). Opinions are like A**-holes, everybody's got them.

And whatever your swaybars (I like the 25/22's) you'll be doing some welding.

[flipwils11]

Thanks for the great feedback everyone, I'll take that into account before I make the purchase.

[RedReplicant]

and maybe some sort of front camber plate (on a stock spring diameter, fixed or adjustable doesn't mean much,).

What he's referring to is that camber is limited by stock diameter springs (read: non-2.5"/60mm springs that come with coilover kits) hitting the inside of the strut tower before much camber can be added.

[flipwils11]

Thanks for noting that, I think I read something about that maybe on IE's site.

But whether I ran fixed camber plates or the offset front strut upper mounts, those alone wouldn't hit the inside of the shock tower (however, combining both fixed camber plates and offset strut mounts might)?

Since it's primarily a street car, I don't think I need to go balls out to get negative camber. There will be no stancing of our E30!

[e30_302]

You can get about -3.0-3.5* up front before you run out of room with a stock diameter spring.

[RedReplicant]

You can get about -3.0-3.5* up front before you run out of room with a stock diameter spring.

Fair enough, I'd read about 2.5* without bending the strut housing which is on the low end for what some people are trying to accomplish with these cars. :)

[SkiFree]

But whether I ran fixed camber plates or the offset front strut upper mounts, those alone wouldn't hit the inside of the shock tower (however, combining both fixed camber plates and offset strut mounts might)?

Depending on the car, it's a possibility. But as you also mentioned you don't need to "max out negative camber". 3/4"-1.25" is nice for a street hotrod.