Coilover installation and strut housing modifications (long)

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  • mspiegle
    E30 Enthusiast
    • Oct 2003
    • 1026

    #1

    Coilover installation and strut housing modifications (long)

    Ok... this is going to be somewhat long...

    I recently purchased a coilover kit from TCK (who has AWESOME customer service btw). Since they are just beginning to enter the E30 scene, they decided to use some parts from IE which they thought were good enough quality to include with their kits. My kit consists of:

    Koni SA front short-shocks
    Koni DA rear shocks
    Vogtland VVS 60mm 500lb/in front springs
    Vogtland VVS 500lb/in rear springs (aka 750lb/in)
    IE front race camber plates
    IE coilover kit (threaded sleeves/etc)
    Solid monoball RSMs

    I'm going to ask TCK the same questions, but I wanted to get a second opinion here for anyone who can visualize what I want to do. My questions are mainly regarding the strut housing and how to modify it to get the most from my setup and still be able to use large wheels.

    So, as most of you know, you need to remove the stock spring perch. I have done this with a sawzall (which worked great i'd like to add). Now, as it is, my wheels (16x8 with 20mm offset) will probably be pretty close to the strut housing and just barely clear the old spring perch. In order to retain these close but acceptable dimensions, I need to ensure that the new coilover spring perch does not go lower than the old spring perch (and thus hit the tires). Since my new shocks are a full 4 inches shorter than the old shocks, I theoretically need to remove 4 inches of strut tubing in order to have the shock sit in the tube the same way it did as stock. Unfortunately, there's only 2-3" of tube that I can cut above the stock spring perch (which would maintain the original location of the spring perch) to accomplish this. If I remove the extra 1-2" below the stock perch, that would physically locate the new spring perch much lower and it *could* introduce tire clearance issues.

    Another issue (which may not really be an issue) is that since the new shocks are 4" shorter (but extend about 1" farther than stock), i'll be loosing approximately 3" of shock travel at the fully-extended end. Is this something I should be concerned about, or is this area of the shock rarely used in actual driving?

    I *think* the best solution might be to cut the strut tubing above the the perch (lets say I can get 2" out of that), then install a spacer at the bottom of the tube (another 2") to makeup the 4" difference in shock sizing. This way, I don't have to worry about locating my new spring perch too low, and I can still gain 2" of extra shock travel to prevent hitting the bumpstop.

    Am I looking at this wrong? Are there any other ideas/solutions out there? Thanks for reading!
    Michael Spiegle

    '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
    '99 M3 / Track Car
    '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
    '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider
  • Beej '86 325es
    R3VLimited
    • Feb 2004
    • 2639

    #2
    I would talk to TCK about it. I don't think you're going to get any educated responses unless someone here has purchased the same kit from TCK. I'm actually surprised they didn't supply you with instructions.

    But here's an uneducated response which reinforces why you should talk to TCK. I have shortened G-C Konis which are installed in the modified strut tubes I supplied them with. They are 1" shorter than factory (about 17" vs. 16"). But that is GC.


    -Brandon
    '86 325es S50
    '12 VW GTI Autobahn DSG
    '03 540i M-Sport (sold)
    '08 Jeep SRT-8 (sold)

    For sale:
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    • Dave
      E30 RAT
      • Nov 2003
      • 11675

      #3
      I have the GC spacers you can use to put the shorty Konis in a stock length housing.

      If you want 'em - say $25 shipped?
      Current Cars
      2014 M235i
      2009 R56 Cooper S
      1998 M3
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      Comment

      • mspiegle
        E30 Enthusiast
        • Oct 2003
        • 1026

        #4
        Yeah, I just got off another nice long conversation about what my options are. Since its easy to remove material from the strut tube (but not quite as easy to add it back in), i'm going to start with removing about 1.5" - 2.0", then cutting a custom spacer to take up the rest of the slack. If it doesn't workout, I can continue cutting and re-welding the strut tube until I find the size that suits me best. They don't even have proper dimensions for what i'm trying to do since they are so new to the E30 world. I just have some basic guidelines that i'm going to try and follow to get this all done.

        The ONLY thing i'm worried about is if my tires will end up hitting or not. I'm aiming for 245/45/16 RA1 on a 16x8 wheel. I'm planning on doing plenty of fender rolling and possibly using a small spacer (if necessary). I'm going to try and use a stock wheel/tire to estimate approximately where the new wheel/tire will be in relation to the strut tube.
        Michael Spiegle

        '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
        '99 M3 / Track Car
        '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
        '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

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        • mspiegle
          E30 Enthusiast
          • Oct 2003
          • 1026

          #5
          Originally posted by DaveCN
          I have the GC spacers you can use to put the shorty Konis in a stock length housing.

          If you want 'em - say $25 shipped?

          I'd take ya up on that, except I want to cut the strut tube down to gain shock travel. I also have lots of 1/8" thick piping around that I can turn into a spacer pretty easilly :)

          Would you happen to have the new perches from GC? I'm not really liking the look/design of the IE ones... they're just a piece of thin pipe cut off.

          How'd your camber plate thing workout?
          Michael Spiegle

          '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
          '99 M3 / Track Car
          '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
          '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

          Comment

          • mspiegle
            E30 Enthusiast
            • Oct 2003
            • 1026

            #6
            Ok... for anyone else who is going to do this, here's a tidbit of info:

            You can take as much or as little material away from the strut housing as you like. When its time to weld the new sleeve perch on, all you need to do is make sure the top of the sleeve is flush with the top of the strut tube. THAT is where you'll locate it.

            Also, coilover springs aren't supposed to be compressed upon installation - right?
            Michael Spiegle

            '01 Ford Escape / Daily Driver
            '99 M3 / Track Car
            '87 325is bronzit / wtf car
            '06 Daytona Triumph 675 / Daily Rider

            Comment

            • E30_fiend
              R3V OG
              • Apr 2006
              • 7348

              #7
              No they aren't supposed to be compressed when mounting them.

              But I was just at TC's shop at the beginning of this month and I saw first hand what he did to the struts of an E30. Using dual adjustable konis, he took a mear 1" of material out of the strut tube. This was all he needed to take out. He used basically everything you did but he used vorschlag plates up front. He put dual adjustable konis all around. The E30 drives great and sits perfect. I would take out as little as possible because like you said, you can't put material back.


              E30_Fiend
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